I think I’ve said it before, but it bears repeating: the nice thing about Wellington New Zealand is you can be in a somewhat-bustling city one minute and on a beautiful hiking path the next. While I’ve written about quite a few of them already, (check out my favorite here,) I recently walked yet another one. The Paekakariki Escarpment Track is a bit newer than the others but still offers gorgeous New Zealand bush and scenery.
A view of Kapiti Island from the Paekakariki Escarpment Track
The track runs high above State Highway 1 along the Kapiti Coast between Paekakariki in the North and Pukerua Bay in the South. It takes about 3 hours to complete and offers unparalleled views of the ocean and Kapiti Island. Interestingly, it also goes through a residential area and through a closed railway station on its southern end.
The track isn’t a long one, but it isn’t easy. It’s a lot of ups and downs and zig-zagging through the bush along the side of the mountains. A lot of it is exposed, so be prepared for those infamous Wellington winds, and strong sunshine.
A view of the ocean, coast line from the Paekakariki Escarpment Track
The Paekakariki Escarpment Track also earns its nickname “The Stairway to Heaven.” There are stairs almost through the entire walk, and at one point there are around 200 in a row. The good news? If you take the trail from North to South you can go down the stairway instead of up them. Just note that you will still be going upstairs at many points, even in this direction, there just won’t be 200 in a row.
A particular highlight of the walk for me was the two suspension bridges between some of the rolling hills. Not only are they fun to walk across, they are also a great spot for selfies.
One of the suspension bridges along the track
Getting there:
We went by train, but you can also drive to the area if you have a car. Just know if you do this you will either have to do the track in both directions or plan to take a train or uber back to your car at the end.
If you go by train: purchase a day pass for $14. This is only a few dollars more than the one-way ticket and will save you money.
Before you go:
There is no water along the track, so make sure to pack an extra bottle. You’ll need it
The track is exposed much of the way, so be prepared for possibly strong sun, wind or cold, depending on the day.
At one point there is no track, just a ledge, and a rope. It’s fairly safe, but if you’re afraid of heights it could be a bit daunting.
I would recommend bringing snacks and planning to take a break about halfway through. There are several benches along the way and at least one picnic table.
Part of the path that goes through a residential area
Beaches, for the most part, have consistently inspired me to write and tell stories. It’s always been this way; I distinctly remember taking a journal with me on family vacations to the Maryland and New Jersey shores as a teen and writing bad teenage poetry while my sisters played in the ocean.
Lion Rock and Piha Beach as seen from the Tasman lookout trail
While my writing style has changed, I do tend to find myself still picking up the pen after a trip to the beach. There’s something about the saltwater air and the calming sounds of the waves that put me in touch with myself and my deepest thoughts like nowhere else in the world. The beach is my happy place.
But for the first time in what feels like forever, I found a visited a few beaches that simply don’t inspire me in that way.
Yes, I enjoyed my trip to Auckland’s West Coast beaches a few months ago, but I didn’t leave feeling at peace, and I certainly didn’t feel like writing about it. In fact, I’ve been avoiding writing this post since December and have been struggling to figure out why that is.
Piha, Anawhata, and Karekare are unanimously considered some of the most beautiful beaches in New Zealand. They all have unique, bulky, rock formations that jut out from the coast and a feeling of privacy that is hard to come by in most regions of the world. (In fact, when I was at Anawhata we were the only ones on the beach at all.) But I’m not in any hurry to go back to see them again.
A picture of Lion Rock showing off its feline appearance
This isn’t because I don’t see and appreciate the beauty of these largely untouched areas of New Zealand, after all, Piha’s sunset is in the running for my favorite of all time. I have beautiful pictures and amazing memories from all three, but they don’t sit in my heart the way other beaches do. Instead, I feel about them the way I feel about the mountains: peaceful and gorgeous, but not for me.
Perhaps this is because I couldn’t be bothered to get in the water because it felt like ice on my toes or the cloudiness that hung around for almost my entire visit, but my heart doesn’t flutter when thinking back to these beaches the way it does when I think of beaches in Australia, Florida, or even New Jersey.
I wish it was different, especially because the friends I went with absolutely adore these locations, but it’s not. That being said, I’d be remiss if I didn’t share a few details about each one.
Piha
Piha as seen from the road to the beach
Perhaps the most well known of the beaches on this list, Piha certainly lives up to its hype as a surfer’s paradise. In fact, I would recommend you don’t come to the beach without a board of some kind: the waves are violent and intense no matter the weather. (In fact, the surf here is so often dangerous there is an entire reality show about it on TVNZ called “Piha Rescue.”)
Because Piha is both the most well known and most easily accessible, it is also the most crowded on this list. However, “crowded” has a different meaning in New Zealand: as my mom pointed out during our video chat, 200 people on a beach anywhere else in the world wouldn’t be considered busy at all.
Amiekay and her coat at Tasman LookoutThe Gap as seen from the Tasman Lookout in Piha
The nice thing about Piha is there is so much to do and see, even if you don’t particularly like ice cold waves. From the beach, you can climb the famous Lion Rock or take a walk to the Tasman Lookout for an amazing view of the beach. Additionally, there are two coffee shops and a general store in the area, meaning you won’t go hungry if you forget to pack a lunch!
If you have the time and are looking to get away from the crowds and see a beautiful sunset, you can make the 30-minute walk (or 5-minute drive) up to the less crowded North Piha Beach. Once there, go to the very end of the beach where you will find a colony of rocks amidst the sand. As the sun sets, the rays bounce off the rocks and water, giving the visitor a natural and beautiful light show.
The sun shines through rock formations on North Piha BeachSunset at North Piha Beach
Karekare
A pile of driftwood on Karekare beach
Made famous in the Oscar-winning movie “The Piano,” Karekare is about a 50-minute drive from Auckland. But once you park your car, you still have some walking to do: the beach is off-set from the parking lot by a boarded path, and then a long stretch of sand before you get to the water. Once there, you will be rewarded with its beautiful black sand and well-known pyramid rock formation that sits amidst the areas strong waves.
I didn’t spend a lot of time in Karekare myself, but there are walks in the area, including one to Karekare Falls. They appear a bit similar to Kitekite falls in Piha, and may be an alternative to anyone interested in avoiding the area in an effort to protect the Kauri Trees.
As far as amenities go, you have some public restrooms but that’s it. It is a bit of a drive to get to and from the beach, so make sure you pack food and water.
Anawhata
Overlooking Anawhata
Heralded as one of New Zealand’s “best-kept secrets,” Anawhata is particularly difficult to get to, especially at the moment: several of the tracks in the area are closed as part of an ongoing effort to protect the Kauri forest. (To read more about this, check out my post on my hike to Kitekite falls.) However, there is at least one path to the beach that is open, just be prepared for a bit of a hike to get there. (Pure New Zealand, amirite?)
A fallen Kauri tree on the path to Anawhata Beach
This 20 to 30-minute walk is a good thing though for anyone who likes privacy, as it keeps the crowds away from Anawhata. (I was there over the busy Christmas period and we were the only people on the beach.)
If you like surfing and can manage to carry your surfboard the whole way, Anawhata, similar to Piha, is known for having good waves. And if you’re a wuss like me, there’s also a few dry activities to take part in: there are several beautiful rock pools to explore, many of which are covered with baby mussels.
Mussels line the rocks at AnawhataA close-up of mussels on rocks in Anawhata
As far as amenities go, Anawhata has none as it takes both a drive and a bush walk to get here, so if you plan on staying for awhile, make sure you’re prepared.
Sometimes we do things we aren’t proud of while traveling, and my walk through the bush to see the Kitekite falls is one of them.
Sure, the views were beautiful, but I feel like I dishonored the sacred land by making the hike.
The beautiful Kitekite falls in Piha, New Zealand
Here’s some background: the Kitekite falls are located near Piha Beach, which is about an hour’s drive west of Auckland. They’re stunning and beautiful, and open to the public. You see, normally there is no reason for anyone to feel guilty about going to see them. But right now, I am going to advise you to not do what I did and avoid this area for the time being.
You see, the area around the falls is home to a Kauri forest and Kauri trees are considered kings of the New Zealand forest by the Maori people. They are giant and beautiful, and unfortunately, a lot of them were chopped down by European settlers when they first arrived in New Zealand. However, in recent years, the New Zealand government has taken measures to protect the remaining trees and the forest is slowly coming back to life.
Me inside of the stump of a dead Kauri tree
Unfortunately, over the last few years, many of the trees have fallen ill due to a parasite which is referred to as Kauri dieback. There’s no cure for the dieback, and in order to keep the parasite from spreading, several people in the area have petitioned the government to close the forests to visitors until it heals. And to their credit, a lot of the trails have been shut down, but many are still open. And while there are places to wash your shoes before continuing into the forest, the move doesn’t fully protect the trees and an area considered sacred by the Maori.
The Kitekite track is full of beautiful greenery, and feels extremely tropical
I knew none of this when I started my hike to the falls, but one-third of the way into the hike, a volunteer at the entrance to the shoe cleaning station did explain why the station was there, and why we should consider turning around. I will say I felt as if I should turn back, but didn’t listen to my gut and went anyway.
The hike itself is beautiful. The walk through the forest is fairly easy and breathtaking, and it only takes about an hour and a half round trip to get to the falls and back, although you can continue onwards if you choose to.
A bridge hikers take on their walk to the Kitekite Falls
The falls themselves are worth every single second of the walk. They stand about 130 feet high and can appear even larger if you continue to the lookout, as there are a smaller waterfall and pool directly above it. They are beautiful and stunning and I am happy I saw them in person.
Still, its been a few weeks since I went on the hike, and I have yet to get over the fact that I did something that could harm the forest, and furthermore, disturb a sacred area because I know better. I strive to be an eco-conscious traveler at all times, and also do my best to adhere to the customs and beliefs of the people the country I am visiting. And while in this particular instance I was with other people I still could’ve spoken up and not continued.
This was right after my right foot fell into the water
Unfortunately, this is in the past and is something I can’t change. But I can tell you the story and try and prevent someone from making the same mistake. While there are some news stories about the paths that have been closed to the public, there is not a lot out there is written about the Kauri trees and the forest around Kitekite Falls that I can find. I think that’s a shame because it is a popular attraction, and people should really know what’s going on before they get there. After all, if you drive all the way out there to see the falls, chances are you aren’t going to want to turn around halfway through. But now that you know at the very least you can go there and make a conscious decision either not to go, or to take some precautions, such as cleaning your shoes of any soil before arriving onsite.
To learn more about the Kauri trees and the disease killing them and how you can help save the trees, please check out this website: https://www.kauridieback.co.nz
Kitekite falls seen through the plants along the track
If you love lighthouses, New Zealand is the place to be. Honestly, I think I’ve walked and hiked to more lighthouses in the Wellington area in the past 7 months then I did my entire life in the states.
That being said, when it comes to my favorite lighthouse here, that would easily be the one at Castlepoint.
Castle Point’s main, but not only attraction
The small town of Castlepoint is about a 2 and a half hour drive outside Wellington in the Wairarapa Region. It’s pretty rural and home to just over 1,600 people. But what it lacks in residents it makes up for in pure beauty.
The obvious attraction at the Castlepoint scenic reserve is the lighthouse, but that’s not all there is to see. Because this is New Zealand, there is also a trail for you to climb, in addition to a number of sandy beaches.
Upon arrival, you’re going to want to climb to the lighthouse first thing, but I would advise you save that for last. That’s because the walk to the lighthouse is quite easy and quick, so you won’t need a lot of energy to get it done. However, you’ll need a bit more to finish and enjoy the Deliverance Cove track, so I suggest you do that first. (And trust me, I don’t suggest hikes unless they are worth it!)
The trek is only about 45 minutes long and is mostly flat. It starts at the parking lot and takes you around the area’s picturesque lagoon. The actual trek ends on the beach, but if you are daring, fit and confident, there is a hidden (and harder) trek that offers beautiful views from above.
The view from Castle Rock of Deliverance CoveA look back at the path to the top
I am generally a rule-follower, and had I been to Castlepoint alone I probably would’ve ended up on the beach. (Also, because I dream to spend every day of my life on the sand.) However, on the day I explored Castlepoint, I went with my friend Rose, who is definitely more on the adventurous side. (Also she doesn’t like sand.) Rose saw a few people climbing up to the top of Castle Rock instead of down, so we followed.
To be clear: while there were a lot of other people headed up the rock with us, this climb is not an official track. There is no path that is cared for or maintained by anyone, and it is steep. At times, it feels like you are going up the rock at a 90-degree angle. And if that wasn’t tricky enough, there are no trees or shelter to shield you from the area’s wind, so you really have to find secure places to land your feet, and occasionally take a seat to make sure you are grounded.
But like any great hike here in New Zealand, the views from the top are spectacular. You can see so much from the top of Castle Rock: from the beach at Deliverance Cove, to the tiny town of Castlepoint, to the lighthouse, to the stunning blues and turquoise of the Pacific Ocean, it is breathtaking. So far, I think it has to be my favorite vantage point I have climbed to in New Zealand.
Deliverance Cove
But what goes up, must come down. The hike to Deliverance Cove is one way, meaning you have to return on the same path. This isn’t an issue on the official track, as it is big enough for pedestrians in both directions, however, that is not the case for the unofficial climb up and down the rock. This means you have to find creative ways around people going in the other direction, while also fighting gravity and wind. It wasn’t incredibly difficult, but it is a hazard to be aware of. Luckily for me, it was something that was encountered on the way down.
After returning to the parking lot, its a quick walk over the beach to the lighthouse trek. The walk itself starts actually starts along a rock in the water, which means the installed concrete path is sometimes wet from the tide. From there, its a bunch of simple wooden boardwalks over the water and apparently a reef, to the lighthouse.
This area is apparently known for marine mammals and birds, although I have to say we didn’t see anything other than seagulls on our visit. Still, the scenery and jagged, rocky coast are stunning. It reminded me a little of forts on the sea, like Castillo de San Marcos in St Augustine, Florida. It’s a feeling Captain James Cook also shared, having named the place “Castlepoint” because it reminded him of the battlements of a castle.
The castle-like rocks that hold the lighthouse
I could’ve spent the day there, but it was quite windy and neither of us had brought our bathing suits or fishing rods, so we headed home shortly after the trip to the lighthouse. On the way back we stopped at Tinui Bar and Cafe. Now, for any tourists visiting the area this is a must because this place sells the best, and least-expensive Manuka Honey of anywhere I’ve been in this country. For about $14 NZD ($9.50 USD,) you can get a jar of this stuff, that is not only tasty but is also known worldwide for its medicinal properties. This is why Manuka Honey usually runs upwards $30 to $50 NZD a jar, and why this is such an amazing find.
In all, if you ever find yourself in the Wellington Region on a summer’s day, make sure you make the drive to Castlepoint. It is the best day trip any beach or lighthouse lover can take. And hey, there’s a hike too.
The lighthouse, with Deliverance Cove and Castle Point in the background
Sorry for all the cheesy names. I figured they are more exciting than “Amiekay went on another hike!” But really, that’s what I did, and this time it was just 20 minutes outside of the city.
Even the signs are works of art here
If you’ve ever looked at Wellington, New Zealand on a map, you know it sits on one side of a horseshoe-shaped harbor. Well, Eastbourne is the small village that sits on the other side of that same harbor. Its small, but it is cute, and behind it is a nature preserve called “Butterfly Creek.”
This trek didn’t end in a perfect view, but it certainly had some good ones along the way
Contrary to what the name may lead you to believe, there are very few butterflies in the area. In fact, the area is said to have gotten its name because there was a patch of land nearby that was shaped like a butterfly. Unfortunately, the only remaining evidence of this shape is the area’s name.
I loved the way the sun shone directly on the tropical looking fern at the time. Doesn’t quite read as well in a picture but at the time it was quite stunning to me
There’s a couple of different tracks you can take through the preserve, some of which are said to have been used by New Zealand’s native Maori. However, these paths certainly feel more modern than most paths, as they are full of steps, signs, benches, and directions to help you along the way.
The trek my friend Anca and I took was the one to the picnic area by the creek. It is a steep climb, but well worth it for the views, vegetation, and peacefulness. It was definitely the most “wooded” hike I have taken since being here other than Zealandia, but it was gorgeous. Also, the trip was pretty short, just an hour each way. (But, as it was steep, it was also a pretty decent workout.)
The view from the picnic area. This place would be a nice spot for couples, I imagine
The picnic area itself is really pretty as well, and I’m not just saying that because we brought chocolate hazelnut cake from the most amazing little cafe with us. (It is called Chocolate Dayz Cafe in Days Bay and if you’re ever in the area you better go. The food’s great but the views are better.)
Sometimes I wonder why I bought a gym membership when I have all this beautiful natural exercise waiting for me just minutes from where I live. But I’m in the contract until May so I guess I’ll still have to go and keep lifting weights or something.
One of my favorite things about Wellington and New Zealand, in general, is how much walking people do here. And because it’s part of the culture, that means there are a lot of specifically walking paths to get around. They are so prevalent, Google maps use them in directions. This means whenever I go somewhere new on foot, I am almost always treated to new landscapes and views (as well as muddy sneakers.) It’s amazing how much beauty there is here in Wellington, just outside the city limits.
Below is a series of pictures I’ve taken over the past 3 months in Wellington, all taken during unexpected journeys.
Shelly Bay
On my way to Shelly Bay, I took a path down a mountain which offered me this stunning view.For a moment, I felt like I was back in the tropics.
Kelburn
I was on my way to a friend’s house for brunch when I stumpled upon this quaint bridge.This is a popular type of path in more urban spots of New Zealand. In some cases, the mail man has to take them to get to the entrance of people’s houses!This feels like the entrance to a secret garden but really its just the entrance to one of the walking paths in Kelburn.
The edge of Mt. Victoria and Oriental Bay
On my way to the Mt. VIctoria trail, I spotted this stunning view of Oriental Bay
Oruati Reserve in Point Dorset
After a yummy brunch at Scorch-O-Rama, my friends and I took a brief walk through a gorgeous reserve. It is easy to take photos when the sun does what you want it to!I couldn’t resist sharing this photo of a dog running into my photo. <3 Puppies and that view!
Stuart Park in Titahi Bay
While exploring my friend’s new work ‘hood, we stumbled upon this beautiful view at Stuart Park in Titahi Bay
So here’s an update you weren’t expecting: I went on an actual hike, like on purpose. (Or was it more of a long walk? This definition is sort of up to debate amongst my friends.) Either way, I took time out a few days ago to see nature and guys, I actually enjoyed it.
One of the views that made the dirty shoes worth the walk
Here’s how it happened: after a long night out (you wouldn’t believe if I told you what time I went to bed,) a friend of mine messaged me the next afternoon and asked if I wanted to go and see live, wild seals. Not really thinking about my dehydration or really anything other than the fact I would get to see seals I immediately said yes. I didn’t think to ask how long it would be, or what kind of shoes to wear. (However, since I only own things that fit in a suitcase, I wouldn’t have had too many choices for the latter.) That being said, I am going to assume my enthusiasm and adrenaline got me through the next few hours, because looking back, I’m not really sure how I managed to make it the 2 and a half-hour trek otherwise. But regardless, it was totally worth it.
The Te Kopahou Reserve seems like another world, but it is a short drive out of Wellington city center; it took us about 10 minutes to get there. When you arrive at the reserve’s massive parking lot, you’re met with accessible restrooms, water fountains and other amenities so you can make sure you’re prepared before taking the trek. (The only thing it doesn’t have is food, so I suggest you eat whatever you need to get you through the walk before you go.)
This picture screams inspirational quote to me
Once you pass through the gates, be prepared for some breathtaking scenery. The reserve is only open to pedestrians and bikers; if you see a car on the path it must belong to one of the areas few residents, and they are only allowed in a small portion of the beach. (My entire trip we saw just one vehicle.) Most of the trek is also sand, so take that into account when wearing shoes. (Don’t be me and wear chucks!)
The easy walk is 100% worth it and offers some of the most stunning views I have seen so far in New Zealand. It was also the first time in my life I have had the privilege of seeing black sand (which if you haven’t seen is a beautiful site in itself!) The black beaches, jutting rocks and spectacular mountains are really amazing to see. (And this is all before you get to the seals!)
The seal in the background is just showing off
When we finally got to the seal colony about an hour and fifteen minutes from the entrance, I was blown away. We didn’t just see one seal, no these creatures littered just about every rock in the areas “red rock” formation. Because they are conserving energy, it is easy to walk up to them and take a picture. (One did bark at me, but quickly went back to his nap.) I was also really excited to find one laying right along the path, but this excitement quickly subsided after the poor animal threw up. We also came across at least 2 dead seal carcasses, so the path isn’t 100% serene, but it is natural and in my opinion, worth every step.
Another highlight of the walk is the “Devil’s Gate” formation at the top of a mountain near the seal colony. It is the perfect spot to grab an instagram photo to share with your friends at you enter the other side of Middle Earth, although I promise it is too beautiful to be Mordor. (If you are going to take a photo though, I would recommend walking through it and turning around for the best shot. Otherwise, you’ll have a warning sign in your image and also miss the chance to capture the sea and the mountains in the background.)
This is the side not to use (I edited out the warning sign because I mean, just look at it!)My friend Anca took a photo of me on the “right” side
I should also mention this trek also introduced me to Paua shells, a beautiful type of shell unique to New Zealand. They feature iridescent blue, green and purples on their insides. Chances are you’ve heard of them or seen something similar, but that doesn’t make them any less beautiful.
Another inspirational quote photo featuring paua shells
I would like to go back to Te Kopahou Reserve and see the sunset sometime, as the little glimpse we caught of the sun falling behind the clouds was quite beautiful. However, because it is New Zealand there are no lights along the path, you’ll have to be prepared with your own flashlight or torch to get you home. I would also recommend taking the trek with friends or a loved one because it is too beautiful to keep to yourself.
I guess I should invest in some hiking boots.
Speechless
Quick Overview:
Price: Free
Hours of Operation: 24 hours. Take a flashlight if you plan to be out after dark
Good for: Solo travelers, hikers, adventurists, nature-lovers, families with kids old enough to walk, couples, seeing sunrise/sunset, animal lovers
