I recently took the plunge and rode down one of New Zealand’s most unique attractions: the Rere Rockslide. Here are some reasons why I think you should go, and a few why it may be something to take off your list.
5 Reasons to Pass it Up:
"Life is either a daring adventure or nothing at all" -Helen Keller
I recently took the plunge and rode down one of New Zealand’s most unique attractions: the Rere Rockslide. Here are some reasons why I think you should go, and a few why it may be something to take off your list.
5 Reasons to Pass it Up:
Napier, New Zealand calls itself the “Art Deco Capital” of the world. It’s a title that the South Florida-girl in me takes immediate issue with; I mean, doesn’t that title rightfully belong to Miami Beach? After all, Miami Beach is bigger, brighter and well, just more recognizable than Napier. However, after I visited this small, beach-front city, I can now say it has a decent, if not somewhat convincing argument. First, a little history: Unlike Miami Beach, Napier was actually mostly built-up prior to the Art Deco style’s hey-day in the 1920’s and 1930’s. The only reason it has this style of architecture is that the city was razed following the deadly 1931 Hawkes Bay earthquake and had to be rebuilt. This means Napier’s construction of art deco was built for an already existing community and, therefore, has a bit of a different feel to it than its United States counterpart, which admittingly, was mainly driven by consumerism and developers hoping to make a buck from wealthy tourists.
I think it is this community-driven development that makes Napier feel almost like its stranded in time. Not only does the architecture take you back to what many refer to as a “simpler” time, so does the city itself. Napier’s downtown is lined with both attractions for tourists, as well as the necessities local need for their daily lives. Unlike the streets of Miami Beach, which are lined predominantly with hotels clubs, restaurants, and car parks, Napier has a mix of cute boutiques, locally-owned cafes, grocery stores and pedestrian-only roads. Its a walkable, locally-driven economy, fueled by a rather tiny population (There are less than 70,000 people living in Napier.)
It’s a set-up that’s by all accounts impossible to replicate in a major, global city like Miami. For starters, Miami Beach has 23,000 more people living in it and attracts even more by way of tourists. Furthermore, this U.S. city is just too expensive for any mom-and-pop shop to really thrive there the way they can in Napier.
This money-driven culture that fuels Miami Beach is something Napier and really New Zealand (apart from maybe Auckland) just can’t compete with – most of the time. There are no massive clubs or luxurious spas for you to enjoy in Napier, but there are world-class restaurants. In fact, its Napier and not Auckland that currently houses the country’s “restaurant of the year,” Pacifica. I have not had the pleasure of tasting Pacifica’s dishes, but after a quick look at their prices and reviews, I can only assume they are fantastic: their prices rival those of restaurants in Miami Beach, the playground of the rich and the famous. But the thing is because it’s not Miami Beach, the restaurants in Napier aren’t paying exorbitant rent to be there, and that means: good food doesn’t have to be expensive. Case in point: tasty restaurants like Honger Monger and Mister D’s regularly make “must try” lists for the country and are more than satisfying. And both aren’t going to bust your budget. Talk about old-fashioned entertainment!
Speaking of old-fashioned entertainment, Napier also makes it easy to be home by curfew: except for the Rose Irish Pub which stays open to a late 12:30 am, the city mostly shuts down at 10 pm. There are no modern-day clubs or bar fights to tear you away from your return to the art deco era.
Napier has less art deco buildings than Miami Beach, and it’s certainly less of an overall tourist attraction. But what it lacks in population, nightlife, and frankly beaches, Napier makes up for with atmosphere. This place, like much of New Zealand, feels like a step back in time. So while this Florida-girl isn’t ready to say Napier is “The” Art Deco Capital of the World, it can certainly be one of them. (Or even, The Art Deco Capital of the Pacific.)
If you love lighthouses, New Zealand is the place to be. Honestly, I think I’ve walked and hiked to more lighthouses in the Wellington area in the past 7 months then I did my entire life in the states.
But what goes up, must come down. The hike to Deliverance Cove is one way, meaning you have to return on the same path. This isn’t an issue on the official track, as it is big enough for pedestrians in both directions, however, that is not the case for the unofficial climb up and down the rock. This means you have to find creative ways around people going in the other direction, while also fighting gravity and wind. It wasn’t incredibly difficult, but it is a hazard to be aware of. Luckily for me, it was something that was encountered on the way down.
I have officially been in New Zealand for 6 months. Its the potential halfway point: my visa expires after a year. I figured today was a good day to reflect on my experience, so far.
This isn’t to say I don’t love anything about New Zealand. This country does nothing but surprise me with its beauty. The islands’ rolling green hills, and varied coastline often leaves me breathless. There’s a simpler way of life here; everything runs a bit slower than it does in the states and that means everyone seems a lot less stressed and hurried. This may be helped by the fact there are simply fewer people here; the entire county has just half the population of New York City, or it may be its politics: everyone here has access to healthcare, and that the government will help if something horrible were to happen. But honestly, horrible things don’t tend to happen that much here. I mean, this is a country where you can actually take a bottle of water through airport security (and on to the airplane,) and where halved-lemons washing on shore is front page news: it’s a safe place to be.
So what does this mean for the next 6 months? I don’t know. Last week I wouldn’t even imagine being here that whole time, but it’s becoming more of a possibility as summer starts to creep in. So, assuming I’m here for another six months, I hope to use that time to travel the country more. Some of the sites I want to see before I leave include Lake Taupo, the Tongariro Crossing, Milford Sound, Dunedin, Abel Tasman and Auckland. It would also be nice to see more of Australia if possible. (Specifically Uluru, Sydney, and Melbourne.) But mostly, what I want for the rest of this year is to be joyful. I want to really relax and begin enjoying this “working holiday” experience. As cheesy as it may sound, I want to leave New Zealand feeling like anything is possible. I want to learn to love myself and my life in beautiful ways I never imagined. It may not be the adventure I set out to have, but like Batman, it was the one I needed.
To to the next 6 months!
-Amiekay
Sorry for all the cheesy names. I figured they are more exciting than “Amiekay went on another hike!” But really, that’s what I did, and this time it was just 20 minutes outside of the city.
If you’ve ever looked at Wellington, New Zealand on a map, you know it sits on one side of a horseshoe-shaped harbor. Well, Eastbourne is the small village that sits on the other side of that same harbor. Its small, but it is cute, and behind it is a nature preserve called “Butterfly Creek.”
Contrary to what the name may lead you to believe, there are very few butterflies in the area. In fact, the area is said to have gotten its name because there was a patch of land nearby that was shaped like a butterfly. Unfortunately, the only remaining evidence of this shape is the area’s name.
There’s a couple of different tracks you can take through the preserve, some of which are said to have been used by New Zealand’s native Maori. However, these paths certainly feel more modern than most paths, as they are full of steps, signs, benches, and directions to help you along the way.
The trek my friend Anca and I took was the one to the picnic area by the creek. It is a steep climb, but well worth it for the views, vegetation, and peacefulness. It was definitely the most “wooded” hike I have taken since being here other than Zealandia, but it was gorgeous. Also, the trip was pretty short, just an hour each way. (But, as it was steep, it was also a pretty decent workout.)
The picnic area itself is really pretty as well, and I’m not just saying that because we brought chocolate hazelnut cake from the most amazing little cafe with us. (It is called Chocolate Dayz Cafe in Days Bay and if you’re ever in the area you better go. The food’s great but the views are better.)
Sometimes I wonder why I bought a gym membership when I have all this beautiful natural exercise waiting for me just minutes from where I live. But I’m in the contract until May so I guess I’ll still have to go and keep lifting weights or something.
Someone told me not to bother coming to New Zealand if I didn’t like hiking. Well, I never liked hiking before but I came here anyway, and now I am planning weekend getaways that include walking some long trails. I am really thankful.
I have to be honest, this likely wouldn’t have happened if I hadn’t met people who were keen to go on hikes and walks themselves and invite me on them. I imagine I would’ve done all the touristy things around Wellington that involved little exertion and then fill up the rest of my week with drinks, the gym, and Netflix. Now, I have to admit already happened to some extent, especially while my more active and hiking friends were out of the area. But guess what? They’re back! And that means, I’ve gone on a few new adventures already, I just haven’t written about them up until this point. To start, I want to focus on our trip to Wairarapa, Greytown and Cape Palliser.
To give you a bit of an idea where this adventure took place, it was a 2-hour drive from Wellington to the cape, which is the Southern-most point of New Zealand’s North Island. That drive through the Rimutaka hills is long and winding, but it is also absolutely breathtaking. (For all of my Pennsylvania friends, it’s a similar look and feel as the Pine Creek Gorge area, which is better known as the Pennsylvania Grand Canyon. If you haven’t been I would recommend it.) There are hikes through this area as well, but we just stopped at the lookout and kept driving. This is because it was a windy and chilly day, but also because the drive was quite long and we had a lot we wanted to do.
On our way to the lighthouse in Cape Palliser, we stopped in one of the hidden gems in the area: a small village called Greytown. The picturesque town is actually the oldest in the region and is full of architecture and cute, funky shops. My friend Anca says it reminds her of the town Stars Hollow from “Gilmore Girls,” and I would have to say this is accurate. (And now you know exactly how the village feels, don’t you?)
In Greytown, we stopped at an adorable coffee shop called “Cahoots.” It has your standard coffee-shop fare which was tasty but what I really liked about it was the atmosphere. It’s a little nerdy and a lot of fun; for instance the table numbers they give out so you know where the food goes all feature pop culture figures. (We were “G” for Gandolf, and someone next to us was “E” for Elvis.)
The rest of the village was a bit artistic and fun as well. There was a bicycle shop where you could buy a tandem bike if you wanted, a community theatre and a lot of locals who didn’t seem used to “so many” tourists.
Our beautiful drive through the mountains continued, before taking us out to the coast. Here, there were black sand beaches to explore and a rocky area that held some of my favorite New Zealand residents: fur seals and seal pups. There were so many in this area you had to be careful where you stepped because some of them were so still you didn’t realize they were there right away.
After the seals, we continued on our way to the Cape Palliser lighthouse. The lighthouse has sat atop the cliff here since 1897 and is still in use today. Me, being a fan of lighthouses, almost didn’t mind the 253 stair climb to the top of the cliff to see it up close! (However, I would’ve loved to climb more steps to get to the top of the lighthouse itself, but alas, this was not an option.)
Now, with all that adventure in one day, you’d think we would be done, but no, not us! Afterwards, we had one more stop yet to take, and this one was the tastiest. Close to Cape Palliser Lighthouse, there is a tiny fishing town known for its crayfish called Ngawi. It is so small, only about 20 people live in the area year-round. As it was the off-season, the only business we passed that was open was the “Captain Table Food Truck,” which sits along the coast. I bet you can guess where we stopped and how tasty the fresh-caught fish and chips were.
Also in the town, we stopped to check out some adorable lambs. They were adorable, albeit a little dirty to pet. Still, totally worth it.
It was a really good day, and aside from the food and coffee, it was 100% free.
One of my favorite things about Wellington and New Zealand, in general, is how much walking people do here. And because it’s part of the culture, that means there are a lot of specifically walking paths to get around. They are so prevalent, Google maps use them in directions. This means whenever I go somewhere new on foot, I am almost always treated to new landscapes and views (as well as muddy sneakers.) It’s amazing how much beauty there is here in Wellington, just outside the city limits.
Below is a series of pictures I’ve taken over the past 3 months in Wellington, all taken during unexpected journeys.
Shelly Bay
Kelburn
The edge of Mt. Victoria and Oriental Bay
Oruati Reserve in Point Dorset
Stuart Park in Titahi Bay
Anyone who thinks it is easy finding a job abroad either works in tech or has never actually tried it.
I have been in New Zealand for over 2 months now, and just finally found someone who will pay me to work. And while it is a good gig, it’s only on a temporary basis, which means unless they continue to have a need for me, I could be without a job again come October. And for anyone who enjoys a sense of security, that’s a tough pill to swallow.
I’m a good candidate with lots of experience and I like to think a decent online presence. I come with passion and a somewhat ridiculous work ethic. I have written some incredible cover letters and have applied to dozens and dozens of jobs since moving here. And what has that gotten me in New Zealand? Two interviews and one job offer. (Unfortunately, the job offer was based in a distant suburb of Auckland on weekends, and would almost definitely require me to have a car so I had to turn it down.) This, of course, has affected my confidence and has sort of caused me to withdraw back into myself. It has caused me to walk away from this blog, and spend most of my time wondering why I moved here in the first place.
I have been asking around, and the most common answer I get from anyone is that immigration is a big political issue here at the moment and that I probably won’t be able to find permanent work of any kind until after the election, and employers know more if I am a candidate they can invest in. Meanwhile, I am missing having a career and upward mobility. I am missing creating but at the same time avoiding it because this inability to even just get interviews is new to me, and makes me wonder what I am doing with my life. It makes me think maybe I should return to the States, where I can find work, health insurance, and a sense of stability.
Is any of this New Zealand’s fault? No. Like the States, it only makes sense a country wants to provide for its citizens first before making room for new people like me. I get it, I do, but it doesn’t make my struggle, or any other immigrant or expat’s struggle any less valid. (Or any less frustrating.)
So what am I to do here if I want to stay? Well, I have always loved spending time on the computer since my childhood. (Seriously, ask my family how I would take over the family computer and build websites during middle and high school.) So, I have thought about going to school to learn coding or some other skill in the tech world to make me more appealing to employers. I know it is something I would enjoy, but student debt is a hard reality I am still dealing with and not something I’m sure I want to incur more of.
So what is the point of writing all this? Well, I think people have this misconception that being a qualified candidate makes it easy for you to live anywhere you want. That if you work hard enough, you can achieve whatever dream you have for yourself. But the truth is that this isn’t possible to some extent, as there are external factors at play, especially for people seeking a life in a new country. Short of starting your own business, opportunities are few and far between unless you have a skill that can’t be found in someone else who already has residency or citizenship — or two things you can’t get anyway without a job offer or a native partner.
I am sorry if this seems political, I don’t mean it to be. I simply needed a post to explain where I’ve been for the past few weeks. I have plans to get back into this blog, but I really needed a break while I dealt with some of these issues. Obviously, they haven’t been fixed but I am at a much better place now than I was a few weeks ago. I also wanted to give you some reality into what it is like looking for jobs outside of your country of residence, and just how hard it is to find a job when you are a foreigner, even if you speak the same language.
On another, happier note, the working environment here in New Zealand is quite different than that in the States. (For one, I drank beer in the office yesterday!) But I’ll save that for another post.
So I finally started working here in New Zealand. It is a temp job, but its money and that means I can do things like leave Wellington and explore this beautiful country. And being a white wine fan, my first place trip was, of course, to Marlborough wine country.
The region isn’t that far from Wellington, but it is on the South Island (or what’s known to the locals as the “main land,”) so that means you either have to get on a plane or boat. Both modes of transportation are adventures in their own right, and thankfully my friend who booked the trip had us take a boat there, and a plane back.
You have two ferry options to cross the Cook Strait from Wellington to Picton: either the Interislander or the Bluebridge ferry. On this sailing, we took the Interislander, which is the original, although I am told there are pros and cons to both.
If you luck out like us, the ferry ride will provide you with stunning views of both islands and crisp blue waters. There’s really no words to describe it, and for around $50 NZD ($37.30 USD) it is a real bargain. (However, if you go on a stormy day it may not be as smooth, as some riders found out a few days later.)
In case you don’t know, New Zealand is a country of micro-climates. It means a quick car trip could take you from a chilly, windy day in one place to a beautiful, still sunny place in another. And that’s really what happened to us. Unlike the blustery, chilly and gray Wellington I am currently calling home, the other side of the strait is beautiful and sunny. It is lush with palmettos, and once we arrived in Blenheim, I felt like I was in a beautiful small seaside town somewhere in South Carolina.
Blenheim may be tiny and quaint, but it is a lot of fun. And its hotels have heat so I felt like a real queen. (Mostly because it had insulation and heat in all rooms.) My friends and I got some lunch at a wonderful Indian Restaurant called Mango in town. And then, after a quick nap we out to enjoy a quick wine tasting before heading to a local pub to watch the rugby test between the New Zealand All Blacks and the British & Irish Lions. The game was a close one, and really fun to watch until it ended in a tie! Maybe it is because I’m American, but watching match up between two great teams that only happen more than a decade apart end without a winner is a bit of a bummer.
The real fun began the next day when we hopped on the Highlight Wine Tour van to check out a few wineries in the region. The Marlborough area, known for its Sauvignon Blancs because of its warm days and cool nights, is beautiful and vast. Just take a ride down the main road and you’ll see wineries lining both sides, some of which are full of sheep and lambs to helping to keep the grass trimmed. (Unfortunately, we were driving past these wineries so I didn’t get any pictures.)
We visited several wineries on our trip, which ended up being private since we went off season. (Most people visit Marlborough in the summer months.) It was, unfortunately, a bit rainy so we didn’t get to stroll the vineyards like I would like to, but I still enjoyed myself. This was my first wine tour anywhere, and the neat thing about Highlight is the tour is tailored to who is on the bus, so the wineries we were planning on visiting changed once or twice throughout the day. For example, we originally were going to visit vineyards known for their rieslings (my favorite variety, don’t judge,) but as the day went on we were really keen on drinking reds, so instead, we visited a place specializing in Pinot Noirs. It was a really wonderful experience, and our tour guide was a wonderful and cheeky woman named Colleen who picked up on our sense of humor quite quickly. We loved her so much we gave her a hug at the end of the trip.
But the adventure didn’t end there. Remember I said the flight was equally adventurous as the ferry? That’s because we flew in a Cessna! While I have flown in small planes before, I had never flown on one commercially and enjoyed this unique experience. Because it is was so tiny, you could watch the pilots fly the plane, and even hear all of the conversations being had between other passengers. (Additionally, you could wake everyone up who was sleeping by just checking your phone!) There were also more traditional flight amenities, including a magazine in for each passenger to read. (And oddly enough, I had more leg-space on that 25-minute flight over the Cook Strait than I ever had on more standard commercial airplanes.) I’ll admit the flight was a bit bumpy going into “Windy Welly” but that wouldn’t deter me from doing it again. The company that flies the planes, SoundsAir, flies from multiple destinations around New Zealand and its something I would suggest you look into should you ever decide to visit.
So here’s an update you weren’t expecting: I went on an actual hike, like on purpose. (Or was it more of a long walk? This definition is sort of up to debate amongst my friends.) Either way, I took time out a few days ago to see nature and guys, I actually enjoyed it.
Here’s how it happened: after a long night out (you wouldn’t believe if I told you what time I went to bed,) a friend of mine messaged me the next afternoon and asked if I wanted to go and see live, wild seals. Not really thinking about my dehydration or really anything other than the fact I would get to see seals I immediately said yes. I didn’t think to ask how long it would be, or what kind of shoes to wear. (However, since I only own things that fit in a suitcase, I wouldn’t have had too many choices for the latter.) That being said, I am going to assume my enthusiasm and adrenaline got me through the next few hours, because looking back, I’m not really sure how I managed to make it the 2 and a half-hour trek otherwise. But regardless, it was totally worth it.
The Te Kopahou Reserve seems like another world, but it is a short drive out of Wellington city center; it took us about 10 minutes to get there. When you arrive at the reserve’s massive parking lot, you’re met with accessible restrooms, water fountains and other amenities so you can make sure you’re prepared before taking the trek. (The only thing it doesn’t have is food, so I suggest you eat whatever you need to get you through the walk before you go.)
Once you pass through the gates, be prepared for some breathtaking scenery. The reserve is only open to pedestrians and bikers; if you see a car on the path it must belong to one of the areas few residents, and they are only allowed in a small portion of the beach. (My entire trip we saw just one vehicle.) Most of the trek is also sand, so take that into account when wearing shoes. (Don’t be me and wear chucks!)
The easy walk is 100% worth it and offers some of the most stunning views I have seen so far in New Zealand. It was also the first time in my life I have had the privilege of seeing black sand (which if you haven’t seen is a beautiful site in itself!) The black beaches, jutting rocks and spectacular mountains are really amazing to see. (And this is all before you get to the seals!)
When we finally got to the seal colony about an hour and fifteen minutes from the entrance, I was blown away. We didn’t just see one seal, no these creatures littered just about every rock in the areas “red rock” formation. Because they are conserving energy, it is easy to walk up to them and take a picture. (One did bark at me, but quickly went back to his nap.) I was also really excited to find one laying right along the path, but this excitement quickly subsided after the poor animal threw up. We also came across at least 2 dead seal carcasses, so the path isn’t 100% serene, but it is natural and in my opinion, worth every step.
Another highlight of the walk is the “Devil’s Gate” formation at the top of a mountain near the seal colony. It is the perfect spot to grab an instagram photo to share with your friends at you enter the other side of Middle Earth, although I promise it is too beautiful to be Mordor. (If you are going to take a photo though, I would recommend walking through it and turning around for the best shot. Otherwise, you’ll have a warning sign in your image and also miss the chance to capture the sea and the mountains in the background.)
I should also mention this trek also introduced me to Paua shells, a beautiful type of shell unique to New Zealand. They feature iridescent blue, green and purples on their insides. Chances are you’ve heard of them or seen something similar, but that doesn’t make them any less beautiful.
I would like to go back to Te Kopahou Reserve and see the sunset sometime, as the little glimpse we caught of the sun falling behind the clouds was quite beautiful. However, because it is New Zealand there are no lights along the path, you’ll have to be prepared with your own flashlight or torch to get you home. I would also recommend taking the trek with friends or a loved one because it is too beautiful to keep to yourself.
I guess I should invest in some hiking boots.
Quick Overview:
Price: Free
Hours of Operation: 24 hours. Take a flashlight if you plan to be out after dark
Good for: Solo travelers, hikers, adventurists, nature-lovers, families with kids old enough to walk, couples, seeing sunrise/sunset, animal lovers