Celebrating Matariki: The Maori New Year

The beginning of July is just around the corner, a time that for many, marks the start of the second half of the Gregorian calendar year. (That’s the 12-month system we all know and love worldwide.) However, that’s not the case for the native Maori people here in New Zealand.

A shot of the Matariki fireworks from Te Papa

Just like we “ring in the New Year” during the winter months in the Northern Hemisphere, so is the tradition with the Maori. If you didn’t know about this, don’t worry, I didn’t either before I arrived in New Zealand. In fact, I may have completely missed Matariki altogether if it wasn’t for a calendar of events put together by Te Papa, the Museum of New Zealand. For the first time ever, the museum is marking this passage of time with a number of special events here in Wellington, including a traditional Matariki ritual, which I had the pleasure of taking part in earlier this month.

Just to give you some background: Matariki actually refers to the cluster of stars more commonly known as the Pleiades. Because Aotearoa (the Maori name for New Zealand) is located in the Southern Hemisphere, these stars rise on the cusp of winter, usually around late May or early June. For the Maori, the sight of this star cluster marks the start of the new year.

A look at the set-up for the Matariki Ritual, which also featured traditional Maori music

The museum’s traditional ritual did a really good job summarizing what this time of year is all about for the Maori. It centered around a giant fire pit and started with the host telling us the story of the Matariki. He also opened up the floor for people to speak and talk a bit about themselves, something I am told happens during a majority of Maori rituals. For me, it was especially interesting to hear from people all over the world. I was amazed at just how international the small city of Wellington really is; I think we heard from someone who originated from just about every continent. I also enjoyed hearing people speak in the native Maori tongue.

Next, we moved on to the actual Matariki ritual and taking the time to appreciate the past year.  For the Maori, Matariki is a time to say goodbye to the loved ones lost during the year. During the ritual at Te Papa, we symbolized this by lighting a candle and sending it adrift on a nearby pond. I personally didn’t know anyone who passed in the past year, so I actually said goodbye to my career in television news. This was a job that defined who I was for almost a decade. As I let go of my candle, I said farewell to that person and allowing myself to embrace this uncertainty in a new country.

Each candle represents a personal farewell to the last year

Matariki is not just a time to say goodbye though, it is also a time of celebration. Like Thanksgiving in the States, the celebration happens around the time crops are harvested, which means there is a lot of food to be had. This is why the ritual centered around the fire, as traditional Maori food is typically cooked in “hangi” ovens, or underground pits. And yes, it does take around three to four hours to cook. (But if you don’t have that much time you can buy it made for you here in New Zealand for around $10 NZD.)

The ritual’s “traditional” fire pit (It was gas fed)

In addition to the feast, Matariki is also a time to think about what you want to see happen in the coming year, and really look forward to all of the new possibilities ahead. For the museum’s ritual, we did this by writing down our wishes and dreams for the next year. At the end of the night, we then put those messages in baskets. I assume part of the ritual next year will involve reading some of these, but I guess I have to wait to find out! Either way here’s hoping some of mine come true.

My personal wishes for the next year

In all, I really enjoyed taking part in something uniquely New Zealand, as well as taking the time to pause and reflect on where I’ve been and where I’m headed. I’ve always been a fan of New Year celebration, so I find it quite amazing I managed to find a place that will allow me.to celebrate my favorite holiday twice a year.

The Matariki fireworks from Oriental Bay

Zealandia

New Zealand really likes to trick me into going for hikes.

Still without a job and keen to take advantage of a good deal, I went to the Zealandia ecosanctuary during its recent “open weekend” promotion with the Wellington Zoo. For two days at the end of the May, the two attractions allow entry for just a $2 NZD donation (or about $1.40 USD.) The entire donation goes to the Wellington Zoo Conservation Fund, which helps save animals in the wild.

The view from the dam at the edge of the ecosanctuary

While it is possible to do both attractions on the same day, I want to express the two are vastly different. On the day I checked them out it was overcast, a tad chilly and had just rained. These conditions are fine for the zoo, which is paved, however, that is not the case for Zealandia.

First and foremost, it is important to remember that Zealandia is an ecosanctuary, not a zoo. The entire attraction is designed to restore the region’s forest and freshwater to their pre-human state. This means, unlike the zoo, much of the area is unpaved and designed to encourage the growth of large trees, plants, and birds.

One of the multiple Kaka’s I saw while they were being fed

I tell you this because Zealandia is absolutely worth the trek, but you need to be prepared to what you’re getting into. I once again did not do proper research before going and was not wearing hiking gear. Furthermore, because it had just rain, much of the experience was muddy and slippery.

However, the chance to see some of the world’s most unique birds and plants was totally worth my muddy Converse sneakers. They say New Zealand is unlike anywhere else in the world, and I can tell you that is 100% true.

Now, I say this having not seen many of the bird species that live in the sanctuary. This is once again, my fault and not the attraction’s, as I should’ve been prepared with things like binoculars and patience. The animals are living like nature intended, and are not confined to any particular space within the area. So you have to be prepared to take your time and pay close attention to the branches above and around you.

All of the kerurus were easy to spot, as they were so big they had to sit on the sturdier branches close to the ground

What I did see, though, was quite impressive. New Zealand Pidgeons or keruru are quite possibly the largest in the world. (Or perhaps they were able to grow so large because they were in their native environment.)

The beautiful and bizarre Takahe

The other birds were equally unique, especially the Takahe, a bird originally from the South Island and unique to New Zealand. The biggest flightless bird in the country, with its beak, and dark blue head, they are quite a sight to see. Previously thought to be extinct,  the species was discovered living in a remote valley in 1948.

Just a small glance at the beautiful plants in Zealandia

And this place is not just about birds. The plants and the scenery are a treat as well, even when they are not in bloom. And since 80% of the plants and trees native to New Zealand are unique to the country, visiting somewhere like Zealandia is ideal for travelers with a limited time, or perhaps, more interested in doing indoor activities.

Quick Overview:

Price: Adults: $18.50 NZD, Children ages 5-17: $10 NZD, 5 and under: Free

Hours of Operation:  9am to 5pm daily (only closed on Christmas Day)

Good for: Solo travelers, hikers, adventurists, nature-lovers, families with kids old enough to walk

Wellington Zoo

The entrance to the Wellington Zoo

I have conflicting feelings on zoos: On one hand, I recognize that they are necessary for conservation and education and without either its hard to preserve and protect the animals in their natural environment. But while this is true, I think we can all agree that the animals would likely be happier roaming freely and it is for this reason I rarely frequent zoos.

However, having never been to a zoo outside of the states, I was quite curious as to what one might be like elsewhere in the world and recently took the opportunity to visit the Wellington Zoo during its “Open Weekend” event. Essentially, for two days at the end of May the zoo and another popular attraction, Zealandia, allow entry for a $2 NZD donation, or about $1.40 USD. The donations go directly to the Wellington Zoo Conservation Fund, which actively helps save animals in the wild, which is something I can get behind.

The outside of the Wellington Zoo in the suburb of Newtown

Not only was I pleasantly surprised with how large the zoo was, but it was also a zoo experience unlike any other I’ve had. Many of the animals were within arms reach and free to roam the exhibits, which is something that doesn’t happen in traditional zoos in the states.

For example, the exhibit dedicated to animals from Australia is one open path where the wallabies, kangaroos, and emu roam freely. I could’ve touched the animals if I wanted to, but didn’t for obvious reasons.

I imagine this emu saying “touch me, I dare you” to me and all of the nearby children

The red pandas and kaka exhibits were similarly open as well.

One of the 3 Kakas who flew above my head during my visit

In addition to the open exhibits, I also saw several animals get fed during the day, which is pretty standard when it comes to zoos, but not something I ever experienced before. And while watching the otters eat was adorable, I can’t say the same for the lions, as I could hear them crush and devour the bones while eating the whole chicken and rack of ribs. However, it was nice to see the big cat so close.

The only picture I got of the lion where you can’t see him devouring meat

But the real highlight of the trip for me, of course, was seeing a kiwi bird. Unfortunately, since the birds are nocturnal and in a dark exhibit, I was unable to get a picture of the bird to share. However, I am thankful the area was dark because otherwise I likely wouldn’t have gotten to see a kiwi, and honestly, what trip to New Zealand is complete without such an experience?

The sun bear posed for me to take a picture

Quick Overview:

Price: Adults: $23 NZD, Children ages 3-14: $11 NZD, Under 3: Free

Hours of Operation:  9:30am-5pm daily

Good for: Solo travelers, families with kids, photographers, anyone who wants to see a kiwi bird

Oh yes, they also have sheep (for the record this is the first one I’ve seen since arriving in New Zealand)

 

New Zealand has Crappy Pokemon

new zealand pokemon

I didn’t move abroad so I could “catch ’em all,” but I would be lying if I didn’t at least consider the benefit being in a new country would have on my Pokedex.
Sadly, it has done nothing for my ‘dex. In fact, I caught more unusual Pokemon while pet-sitting at a friend’s in Florida. (Thanks, Steph!)

My most recent Pokemon catches after 10 days in New Zealand

Here’s the deal: Because Wellington is on the water, that means there is a lot of water Pokemon to be found. However, this was true when I lived in West Palm Beach, Florida as well, so essentially, I am getting the same Pokemon I got there, MINUS the regionals. (And in case you’re wondering, New Zealand doesn’t have any regionals. You can only get Kangaskan in Australia.) Guys, I’m really sick of all the Psyduck.

The most common Pokemon on my daily walk into town

On a positive note, I have been getting more 10k eggs here, so that may count for something. However, my 2k eggs so far have just about all been Goldeen and Oddish.

I did search for better catches on a brief trip to Auckland, but my luck wasn’t any better.

Also, Team Instinct actually represents here?

Bottom line: New Zealand is good for a lot of things, but Pokemon isn’t one of them.

But hey, you can catch Ekans here, even though there are no snakes in the country…

Snakes in New Zealand, sort of.

Climbing Mount Victoria

climbing mt victoria

In case you haven’t noticed, I recently decided to start taking advantage of the “holiday” portion of my “working holiday” in New Zealand. I figured it was best I embraced by free time instead of bemoaning the fact that I have yet to find work. Besides, I had completely neglected one of the most recommended and free things to do in Wellington: climbing Mount Victoria.

The views from the lookout are incredible

Now, I set out unawares that it would actually be much of a “climb.” This may be because the official and unofficial things I read called it a walk and not a hike. (And I didn’t take the recommended “walkway” because I am an internet skimmer. So my fault on that one.)

One of the steep hills along the Lookout Walkway

Anyway, I prepared for my hike by wearing my reliable chucks, and a fancier sweater than was probably necessary. Because I don’t read full articles, I took the “Lookout Walkway” as opposed to the “Southern Walkway,” because the first one seemed a bit shorter. And while it was definitely shorter, it was also very steep. Furthermore, I probably missed out on some stellar views along the way.

So many steep hills along the walk
One of the hills had a set of staircases. It was a small miracle

The 30-minute walk, however, is entirely worth it, no matter what route you choose to take. That’s because upon making it to the top, you get beautiful 360-degree views from more than 643 feet above Wellington. From the green mountains to the sea, to the airport, every part of the view makes your heart beat and is worth every ounce of sweat that rolls down your back.

I told you the views were amazing

But in addition to the views, there is also something else at the peak that’s not to be missed and that is the Richard Byrd Memorial. If you don’t know who Richard Byrd is, he was an American arctic explorer who used New Zealand as the base for his trips to Antarctica. Unveiled in 1962, the sculpture is in the shape of a polar tent and is built from rocks from Antarctica. The outside of it is covered in artwork depicting the Aurora Australis or “Southern Lights,” which you can sometimes see from the city. And if those unique facts didn’t get your attention, get this: the axis of the memorial points due south. So if you were to follow that line for hundreds of miles you’d eventually reach Antarctica. Pretty cool.

The Robert Byrd Memorial

Quick Overview:

Price: Free, unless you count sweat as a cost.

Hours of Operation:  Open 24 hours, 7 days a week, although I would suggest taking the hike during the daytime. The outlook is accessible by cars for those who want to catch the sunrise and sunset or see the stars.

Good for: Solo travelers, hikers, photographers, couples looking for a romantic view of the city, families with kids, star-gazers

Wellington Cable Car

Wellington Cable Car station Kelburn

One of the things I’ve been most looking forward to doing since moving to Wellington was riding the Cable Car. I don’t know why, but I find something enchanting about old school transportation. I went today and really enjoyed the experience!

End of the line: Kelburn station

A little background on the cable car: It has been running for over 100 years and is the only railway like it in New Zealand.  The ride is just 5 minutes long and takes you from the busy streets of Lambton Quay to the quiet suburb of Kelburn. At the top, there are a few fun things to do including the Cable Car Museum, Botanic Gardens, Zealandia Wildlife Sanctuary, and Space Place. There is no fee for the museum or the botanic gardens.

It was a bit chilly and windy when I went so I spent much of my time checking out the views and visiting the museum, but I have plans to take the trip again this weekend.

One of the more obvious views. However, this site alone is worth your ticket up in my opinion

When you get to the top of the mountain, make sure you take a walk around, or you’ll be missing quite a few unique views of the harbor and downtown. The obvious spots to take pictures are right by where the Cable Car lets you off, but if you walk just 5 minutes towards “Space Place,” there is another look out that isn’t too be missed. There is also a nice trail that way that takes you through the mountains, should you want to skip the botanical gardens.

The museum is small but manages to include what seemed like a day’s worth of reading on its walls. I would say the main attractions for me were the two older cars that used to run the tracks. The “Red Rattler” from the 1950s even had seats on the outside, which I found especially interesting; in addition to the obvious dangers of being on the outside, I also think it would be quite cold, given Wellington’s famous winds.

The “Red Rattler” car was used on the line between the 1950s and 1970s
The frightening outdoor seats

The other car, from the early 1900’s was plain gorgeous. While it’s missing the now-iconic red hue, the victorian design and colors are quite charming.

“Grip Car No. 3” carried passengers in the early 1900s

Something else I should note about the museum is its situated inside the original “winding house” for the cable car. In fact, you can still see the original winding mechanism that pulled the cars up and down the mountainside!

Sign inside the original winding house
One of the original gears used to pull cars up the mountainside

The only other exhibit inside the museum (I told you it was small) features model trains, which always make me think of Sheldon Cooper from the “Big Bang Theory.” They were fun to look at and take pictures of, and one of the buildings kind of looks like Hogwarts, so I would recommend checking them out.

The Cable Car Museum model train exhibit was fun and sure to be a highlight for any kid

Finally, the most surprising part of today’s adventure was the light shows hidden inside the tunnels along the mountain. I didn’t expect to see these installations on a historic railway but really did enjoy them. And make sure you don’t just look at them going through; the patterns are not to be missed…so sit near the front or rear of the car so you can watch them dance.

It may not be the LUX Light Festival, but this is a fun display you can catch year-round

Quick Overview:

Price: $7.50 NZD for a round-trip ticket.

-Includes free admission to Cable Car Museum, and Botanic Garden of Wellington. It also connects you to a free bus that will connect you to the Zealandia Wildlife Sanctuary.

Hours of Operation:  Runs every 10 minutes

-7am – 10pm Monday- Friday 

-8:30am-10pm Saturday

-8:30am – 9pm Sunday

Good for: Families with kids, solo travelers, hikers, photographers, history buffs and couples looking for a romantic view of the city

 

 

 

Beating the cold

beating the cold

‘You can’t beat Wellington on a good day.’ – Every Wellingtonian

Something you may find surprising about New Zealand is that most of the houses here lack both insulation and central heat. So that means this girl from Florida now has to learn to layer up and embrace the cold. This by far has been the hardest part of the transition, and from what I hear it is only sure to get colder.

That being said, Wellington is an amazing little city that I would recommend anyone visiting New Zealand check out. The weather leaves a bit to be desired, but the city makes up for it in charm, artwork and fun activities. (Oh, and did I mention an abundance of coffee shops, food, and drink options?)

For example, this week in Wellington we currently have two events going on: The NZ International Comedy Festival and the LUX Light F.estival. I’ve already attended both, but because they are so large I hope to visit both again.

Unfortunately, you aren’t supposed to take pictures during the comedy shows, but the one I went to on my birthday was quite fantastic. It featured six comics, all who had their own style and background. (One was even from the states and made fun of my beloved Philadelphia!) It was a great way to get a taste of the shows going on around town, and unlike most comedy shows in the states, there was no beverage requirement to enjoy the fun.

“The Circus of Light” is a show projected onto the Wellington City Council Building. It was interesting…

The LUX Light Festival was such a unique experience. Basically, artists take over the entirety of Wellington by putting on unique and sometimes interactive displays centered around the “light” theme. For example, one of the art pieces is a large box of sound and light and spectators could change the patterns by touching the box. There are also a whole “district” dedicated to displays for children so it’s also family friendly. Plus there’s food, including glow-in-the-dark gelato.

Another display projects nostalgic images onto hanging clothes

The festival is so big, that while the group I was with thought we hit all the artwork, we simply did not. I walked by an installation I hadn’t seen last night. And since the event is free, I can just check it out the next time I stroll by.

And that’s not all, later this month there is The Wellington Food Show, which I plan to eat my way through. So for a town of fewer than 500,000 people, this city has a lot going on. So I guess I’ll just have to buy a hat.

And so I did.

Downsizing My Life

downsizing my life

“Fill your life with adventures, not things. Have stories to tell, not stuff to show.’  -Unknown

Learning not to be a pack rat is hard when you grew up with a mom who kept literally everything.

You see, when you’re poor you have this mindset that everything is important because you don’t know what you’ll be able to afford in the future. This means you don’t give or throw away much; everything is kept around “just in case.”

 

My childhood home is full of so many things because of this mindset. There are boxes of my school papers that I will likely never look at again, my mom has more clothes than she could wear in a year, and none of this counts what’s in our family’s detached garage.

Naturally, as much as I recognized this was a problem, I kept some of these tendencies when I moved out. I had boxes and boxes of mementos from past boyfriends, old phones, VHS tapes and even a broken music player. I can’t tell you why I kept these things, I just did.

VHS tapes I hadn’t watched since childhood. I haven’t owned a VHS player like, ever.

What helped me start sorting through this was a book called “The Life-Changing Magic of Tidying Up” by Marie Kando.

(Yes, the same book Emily Gilmore references in “Gilmore Girls: Year in the Life.” Now why the book didn’t work for her, it did work for me.

The KonMarie Method is very particular and I suggest reading the whole book if its something you want to do right. The method splits your items and stuff into categories which you then go through in a certain order, moving from easy to hard.

The method to go through your things in each category is the same:  you hold each item in your hands and see if it brings you joy. If it does, you get to keep it, if it doesn’t, you have to get rid of it. I admit this sounds a little weird and obviously takes some practice, but the results are pretty epic. I went through a closet overflowing with clothes to just 3 suitcases (and a couple of boxes I shipped home.)

My closet prior to decluttering. Goodwill got quite the donation.
Everything that was in my dresser, spread out on the floor.

Now, I won’t say this is easy. There are some things that made me cry when I went through them, especially when it came to my boyfriend boxes. But it’s kind of freeing in a way to only have 3 suitcases, and frankly, I want to get down to another one.

I miss my Hylian shield and Master Swords! However, I am pretty sure this wouldn’t have made it through customs.

Letting go of a lot of incredible nerd memorabilia and books wasn’t as hard as parting with my furniture which came as a bit of a surprise.

 

I think this was because I had bought the furniture new only a year ago and thought it would follow me to my eventual home. However, I think buying it helped me feel “tied down” to an area, and ultimately gave me the motivation and strength to move. I like being able to just pack up and go somewhere new if I want to, and owning big bulky items doesn’t let you do that.

My dresser. One of my beautiful furniture pieces that now have a new home.

It’s only been a few weeks so I have to admit I still miss some of my “things,” (especially my bed and central heat.) But if I had those things still I couldn’t have made this trip, and I wouldn’t have any of the great memories I have already made in this new country.

My empty apartment in Florida

Initial impressions of New Zealand

initial impressions of new zealand

I have only been here for a few hours and already I’m in love. This place is unlike anywhere else I’ve ever been.


The plants are a mix of the “tropical” ones I’ve come to love in Florida, as well as more evergreen sort of trees. The mountains are unlike anything  back home. Plus, there are lots of cool restaurants, bars and public art in Wellington. It’s quite fantastic.

Yes, it is cold. But I am surprisingly okay with it. After all, I’m in New Zealand, and that’s pretty amazing.