Wellington Archives | Amiekay's Adventure

March 12, 2018March 20, 2018

Paekakariki Escarpment Track

I think I’ve said it before, but it bears repeating: the nice thing about Wellington New Zealand is you can be in a somewhat-bustling city one minute and on a beautiful hiking path the next. While I’ve written about quite a few of them already, (check out my favorite here,) I recently walked yet another one. The Paekakariki Escarpment Track is a bit newer than the others but still offers gorgeous New Zealand bush and scenery.

A view of Kapiti Island from the Paekakariki Escarpment Track

The track runs high above State Highway 1 along the Kapiti Coast between Paekakariki in the North and Pukerua Bay in the South. It takes about 3 hours to complete and offers unparalleled views of the ocean and Kapiti Island. Interestingly, it also goes through a residential area and through a closed railway station on its southern end.

The track isn’t a long one, but it isn’t easy. It’s a lot of ups and downs and zig-zagging through the bush along the side of the mountains. A lot of it is exposed, so be prepared for those infamous Wellington winds, and strong sunshine.

A view of the ocean, coast line from the Paekakariki Escarpment Track

The Paekakariki Escarpment Track also earns its nickname “The Stairway to Heaven.” There are stairs almost through the entire walk, and at one point there are around 200 in a row. The good news? If you take the trail from North to South you can go down the stairway instead of up them. Just note that you will still be going upstairs at many points, even in this direction, there just won’t be 200 in a row.

A particular highlight of the walk for me was the two suspension bridges between some of the rolling hills. Not only are they fun to walk across, they are also a great spot for selfies.

One of the suspension bridges along the Paekakariki Escarpement track — One of the suspension bridges along the track

Getting there:

We went by train, but you can also drive to the area if you have a car. Just know if you do this you will either have to do the track in both directions or plan to take a train or uber back to your car at the end.
If you go by train: purchase a day pass for $14. This is only a few dollars more than the one-way ticket and will save you money.

Before you go:

There is no water along the track, so make sure to pack an extra bottle. You’ll need it
The track is exposed much of the way, so be prepared for possibly strong sun, wind or cold, depending on the day.
At one point there is no track, just a ledge, and a rope. It’s fairly safe, but if you’re afraid of heights it could be a bit daunting.
I would recommend bringing snacks and planning to take a break about halfway through. There are several benches along the way and at least one picnic table.

Part of the Paekakariki Track that goes through a residential area — Part of the path that goes through a residential area

October 12, 2017February 21, 2018

Exploring Eastbourne

Sorry for all the cheesy names. I figured they are more exciting than “Amiekay went on another hike!” But really, that’s what I did, and this time it was just 20 minutes outside of the city.

If you’ve ever looked at Wellington, New Zealand on a map, you know it sits on one side of a horseshoe-shaped harbor. Well, Eastbourne is the small village that sits on the other side of that same harbor. Its small, but it is cute, and behind it is a nature preserve called “Butterfly Creek.”

This trek didn’t end in a perfect view, but it certainly had some good ones along the way

Contrary to what the name may lead you to believe, there are very few butterflies in the area. In fact, the area is said to have gotten its name because there was a patch of land nearby that was shaped like a butterfly. Unfortunately, the only remaining evidence of this shape is the area’s name.

I loved the way the sun shone directly on the tropical looking fern at the time. Doesn’t quite read as well in a picture but at the time it was quite stunning to me

There’s a couple of different tracks you can take through the preserve, some of which are said to have been used by New Zealand’s native Maori. However, these paths certainly feel more modern than most paths, as they are full of steps, signs, benches, and directions to help you along the way.

The trek my friend Anca and I took was the one to the picnic area by the creek. It is a steep climb, but well worth it for the views, vegetation, and peacefulness. It was definitely the most “wooded” hike I have taken since being here other than Zealandia, but it was gorgeous. Also, the trip was pretty short, just an hour each way. (But, as it was steep, it was also a pretty decent workout.)

The view from the picnic area. This place would be a nice spot for couples, I imagine

The picnic area itself is really pretty as well, and I’m not just saying that because we brought chocolate hazelnut cake from the most amazing little cafe with us. (It is called Chocolate Dayz Cafe in Days Bay and if you’re ever in the area you better go. The food’s great but the views are better.)

Sometimes I wonder why I bought a gym membership when I have all this beautiful natural exercise waiting for me just minutes from where I live. But I’m in the contract until May so I guess I’ll still have to go and keep lifting weights or something.

August 29, 2017February 21, 2018

Unexpected Journeys

One of my favorite things about Wellington and New Zealand, in general, is how much walking people do here. And because it’s part of the culture, that means there are a lot of specifically walking paths to get around. They are so prevalent, Google maps use them in directions. This means whenever I go somewhere new on foot, I am almost always treated to new landscapes and views (as well as muddy sneakers.) It’s amazing how much beauty there is here in Wellington, just outside the city limits.

Below is a series of pictures I’ve taken over the past 3 months in Wellington, all taken during unexpected journeys.

Shelly Bay

For a moment, I felt like I was back in the tropics.

Kelburn

I was on my way to a friend’s house for brunch when I stumpled upon this quaint bridge.

This is a popular type of path in more urban spots of New Zealand. In some cases, the mail man has to take them to get to the entrance of people’s houses!

This feels like the entrance to a secret garden but really its just the entrance to one of the walking paths in Kelburn.

The edge of Mt. Victoria and Oriental Bay

On my way to the Mt. VIctoria trail, I spotted this stunning view of Oriental Bay

Oruati Reserve in Point Dorset

After a yummy brunch at Scorch-O-Rama, my friends and I took a brief walk through a gorgeous reserve. It is easy to take photos when the sun does what you want it to!

I couldn’t resist sharing this photo of a dog running into my photo. <3 Puppies and that view!

Stuart Park in Titahi Bay

July 10, 2017February 25, 2018

Seeing Seals at Te Kopahou Reserve

So here’s an update you weren’t expecting: I went on an actual hike, like on purpose. (Or was it more of a long walk? This definition is sort of up to debate amongst my friends.) Either way, I took time out a few days ago to see nature and guys, I actually enjoyed it.

One of the views that made the dirty shoes worth the walk

Here’s how it happened: after a long night out (you wouldn’t believe if I told you what time I went to bed,) a friend of mine messaged me the next afternoon and asked if I wanted to go and see live, wild seals. Not really thinking about my dehydration or really anything other than the fact I would get to see seals I immediately said yes. I didn’t think to ask how long it would be, or what kind of shoes to wear. (However, since I only own things that fit in a suitcase, I wouldn’t have had too many choices for the latter.) That being said, I am going to assume my enthusiasm and adrenaline got me through the next few hours, because looking back, I’m not really sure how I managed to make it the 2 and a half-hour trek otherwise. But regardless, it was totally worth it.

The Te Kopahou Reserve seems like another world, but it is a short drive out of Wellington city center; it took us about 10 minutes to get there. When you arrive at the reserve’s massive parking lot, you’re met with accessible restrooms, water fountains and other amenities so you can make sure you’re prepared before taking the trek. (The only thing it doesn’t have is food, so I suggest you eat whatever you need to get you through the walk before you go.)

This picture screams inspirational quote to me

Once you pass through the gates, be prepared for some breathtaking scenery. The reserve is only open to pedestrians and bikers; if you see a car on the path it must belong to one of the areas few residents, and they are only allowed in a small portion of the beach. (My entire trip we saw just one vehicle.) Most of the trek is also sand, so take that into account when wearing shoes. (Don’t be me and wear chucks!)

The easy walk is 100% worth it and offers some of the most stunning views I have seen so far in New Zealand. It was also the first time in my life I have had the privilege of seeing black sand (which if you haven’t seen is a beautiful site in itself!) The black beaches, jutting rocks and spectacular mountains are really amazing to see. (And this is all before you get to the seals!)

The seal in the background is just showing off

When we finally got to the seal colony about an hour and fifteen minutes from the entrance, I was blown away. We didn’t just see one seal, no these creatures littered just about every rock in the areas “red rock” formation. Because they are conserving energy, it is easy to walk up to them and take a picture. (One did bark at me, but quickly went back to his nap.) I was also really excited to find one laying right along the path, but this excitement quickly subsided after the poor animal threw up. We also came across at least 2 dead seal carcasses, so the path isn’t 100% serene, but it is natural and in my opinion, worth every step.

Another highlight of the walk is the “Devil’s Gate” formation at the top of a mountain near the seal colony. It is the perfect spot to grab an instagram photo to share with your friends at you enter the other side of Middle Earth, although I promise it is too beautiful to be Mordor. (If you are going to take a photo though, I would recommend walking through it and turning around for the best shot. Otherwise, you’ll have a warning sign in your image and also miss the chance to capture the sea and the mountains in the background.)

This is the side not to use (I edited out the warning sign because I mean, just look at it!)

My friend Anca took a photo of me on the “right” side

I should also mention this trek also introduced me to Paua shells, a beautiful type of shell unique to New Zealand. They feature iridescent blue, green and purples on their insides. Chances are you’ve heard of them or seen something similar, but that doesn’t make them any less beautiful.

Another inspirational quote photo featuring paua shells

I would like to go back to Te Kopahou Reserve and see the sunset sometime, as the little glimpse we caught of the sun falling behind the clouds was quite beautiful. However, because it is New Zealand there are no lights along the path, you’ll have to be prepared with your own flashlight or torch to get you home. I would also recommend taking the trek with friends or a loved one because it is too beautiful to keep to yourself.

I guess I should invest in some hiking boots.

Quick Overview:

Price: Free

Hours of Operation: 24 hours. Take a flashlight if you plan to be out after dark

Good for: Solo travelers, hikers, adventurists, nature-lovers, families with kids old enough to walk, couples, seeing sunrise/sunset, animal lovers

June 28, 2017February 25, 2018

Celebrating Matariki: The Maori New Year

The beginning of July is just around the corner, a time that for many, marks the start of the second half of the Gregorian calendar year. (That’s the 12-month system we all know and love worldwide.) However, that’s not the case for the native Maori people here in New Zealand.

A shot of the Matariki fireworks from Te Papa

Just like we “ring in the New Year” during the winter months in the Northern Hemisphere, so is the tradition with the Maori. If you didn’t know about this, don’t worry, I didn’t either before I arrived in New Zealand. In fact, I may have completely missed Matariki altogether if it wasn’t for a calendar of events put together by Te Papa, the Museum of New Zealand. For the first time ever, the museum is marking this passage of time with a number of special events here in Wellington, including a traditional Matariki ritual, which I had the pleasure of taking part in earlier this month.

Just to give you some background: Matariki actually refers to the cluster of stars more commonly known as the Pleiades. Because Aotearoa (the Maori name for New Zealand) is located in the Southern Hemisphere, these stars rise on the cusp of winter, usually around late May or early June. For the Maori, the sight of this star cluster marks the start of the new year.

A look at the set-up for the Matariki Ritual, which also featured traditional Maori music

The museum’s traditional ritual did a really good job summarizing what this time of year is all about for the Maori. It centered around a giant fire pit and started with the host telling us the story of the Matariki. He also opened up the floor for people to speak and talk a bit about themselves, something I am told happens during a majority of Maori rituals. For me, it was especially interesting to hear from people all over the world. I was amazed at just how international the small city of Wellington really is; I think we heard from someone who originated from just about every continent. I also enjoyed hearing people speak in the native Maori tongue.

Next, we moved on to the actual Matariki ritual and taking the time to appreciate the past year. For the Maori, Matariki is a time to say goodbye to the loved ones lost during the year. During the ritual at Te Papa, we symbolized this by lighting a candle and sending it adrift on a nearby pond. I personally didn’t know anyone who passed in the past year, so I actually said goodbye to my career in television news. This was a job that defined who I was for almost a decade. As I let go of my candle, I said farewell to that person and allowing myself to embrace this uncertainty in a new country.

Each candle represents a personal farewell to the last year

Matariki is not just a time to say goodbye though, it is also a time of celebration. Like Thanksgiving in the States, the celebration happens around the time crops are harvested, which means there is a lot of food to be had. This is why the ritual centered around the fire, as traditional Maori food is typically cooked in “hangi” ovens, or underground pits. And yes, it does take around three to four hours to cook. (But if you don’t have that much time you can buy it made for you here in New Zealand for around $10 NZD.)

The ritual’s “traditional” fire pit (It was gas fed)

In addition to the feast, Matariki is also a time to think about what you want to see happen in the coming year, and really look forward to all of the new possibilities ahead. For the museum’s ritual, we did this by writing down our wishes and dreams for the next year. At the end of the night, we then put those messages in baskets. I assume part of the ritual next year will involve reading some of these, but I guess I have to wait to find out! Either way here’s hoping some of mine come true.

In all, I really enjoyed taking part in something uniquely New Zealand, as well as taking the time to pause and reflect on where I’ve been and where I’m headed. I’ve always been a fan of New Year celebration, so I find it quite amazing I managed to find a place that will allow me.to celebrate my favorite holiday twice a year.

The Matariki fireworks from Oriental Bay

June 13, 2017February 21, 2018

Zealandia

New Zealand really likes to trick me into going for hikes.

Still without a job and keen to take advantage of a good deal, I went to the Zealandia ecosanctuary during its recent “open weekend” promotion with the Wellington Zoo. For two days at the end of the May, the two attractions allow entry for just a $2 NZD donation (or about $1.40 USD.) The entire donation goes to the Wellington Zoo Conservation Fund, which helps save animals in the wild.

The view from the dam at the edge of the ecosanctuary

While it is possible to do both attractions on the same day, I want to express the two are vastly different. On the day I checked them out it was overcast, a tad chilly and had just rained. These conditions are fine for the zoo, which is paved, however, that is not the case for Zealandia.

First and foremost, it is important to remember that Zealandia is an ecosanctuary, not a zoo. The entire attraction is designed to restore the region’s forest and freshwater to their pre-human state. This means, unlike the zoo, much of the area is unpaved and designed to encourage the growth of large trees, plants, and birds.

One of the multiple Kaka’s I saw while they were being fed

I tell you this because Zealandia is absolutely worth the trek, but you need to be prepared to what you’re getting into. I once again did not do proper research before going and was not wearing hiking gear. Furthermore, because it had just rain, much of the experience was muddy and slippery.

However, the chance to see some of the world’s most unique birds and plants was totally worth my muddy Converse sneakers. They say New Zealand is unlike anywhere else in the world, and I can tell you that is 100% true.

Now, I say this having not seen many of the bird species that live in the sanctuary. This is once again, my fault and not the attraction’s, as I should’ve been prepared with things like binoculars and patience. The animals are living like nature intended, and are not confined to any particular space within the area. So you have to be prepared to take your time and pay close attention to the branches above and around you.

All of the kerurus were easy to spot, as they were so big they had to sit on the sturdier branches close to the ground

What I did see, though, was quite impressive. New Zealand Pidgeons or keruru are quite possibly the largest in the world. (Or perhaps they were able to grow so large because they were in their native environment.)

The other birds were equally unique, especially the Takahe, a bird originally from the South Island and unique to New Zealand. The biggest flightless bird in the country, with its beak, and dark blue head, they are quite a sight to see. Previously thought to be extinct, the species was discovered living in a remote valley in 1948.

Just a small glance at the beautiful plants in Zealandia

And this place is not just about birds. The plants and the scenery are a treat as well, even when they are not in bloom. And since 80% of the plants and trees native to New Zealand are unique to the country, visiting somewhere like Zealandia is ideal for travelers with a limited time, or perhaps, more interested in doing indoor activities.

Quick Overview:

Price: Adults: $18.50 NZD, Children ages 5-17: $10 NZD, 5 and under: Free

Hours of Operation: 9am to 5pm daily (only closed on Christmas Day)

Good for: Solo travelers, hikers, adventurists, nature-lovers, families with kids old enough to walk

June 6, 2017February 25, 2018

Wellington Zoo

I have conflicting feelings on zoos: On one hand, I recognize that they are necessary for conservation and education and without either its hard to preserve and protect the animals in their natural environment. But while this is true, I think we can all agree that the animals would likely be happier roaming freely and it is for this reason I rarely frequent zoos.

However, having never been to a zoo outside of the states, I was quite curious as to what one might be like elsewhere in the world and recently took the opportunity to visit the Wellington Zoo during its “Open Weekend” event. Essentially, for two days at the end of May the zoo and another popular attraction, Zealandia, allow entry for a $2 NZD donation, or about $1.40 USD. The donations go directly to the Wellington Zoo Conservation Fund, which actively helps save animals in the wild, which is something I can get behind.

The outside of the Wellington Zoo in the suburb of Newtown

Not only was I pleasantly surprised with how large the zoo was, but it was also a zoo experience unlike any other I’ve had. Many of the animals were within arms reach and free to roam the exhibits, which is something that doesn’t happen in traditional zoos in the states.

For example, the exhibit dedicated to animals from Australia is one open path where the wallabies, kangaroos, and emu roam freely. I could’ve touched the animals if I wanted to, but didn’t for obvious reasons.

I imagine this emu saying “touch me, I dare you” to me and all of the nearby children

The red pandas and kaka exhibits were similarly open as well.

One of the 3 Kakas who flew above my head during my visit

In addition to the open exhibits, I also saw several animals get fed during the day, which is pretty standard when it comes to zoos, but not something I ever experienced before. And while watching the otters eat was adorable, I can’t say the same for the lions, as I could hear them crush and devour the bones while eating the whole chicken and rack of ribs. However, it was nice to see the big cat so close.

The only picture I got of the lion where you can’t see him devouring meat

But the real highlight of the trip for me, of course, was seeing a kiwi bird. Unfortunately, since the birds are nocturnal and in a dark exhibit, I was unable to get a picture of the bird to share. However, I am thankful the area was dark because otherwise I likely wouldn’t have gotten to see a kiwi, and honestly, what trip to New Zealand is complete without such an experience?

The sun bear posed for me to take a picture

Quick Overview:

Price: Adults: $23 NZD, Children ages 3-14: $11 NZD, Under 3: Free

Hours of Operation: 9:30am-5pm daily

Good for: Solo travelers, families with kids, photographers, anyone who wants to see a kiwi bird

Oh yes, they also have sheep (for the record this is the first one I’ve seen since arriving in New Zealand)

May 26, 2017February 25, 2018

Climbing Mount Victoria

In case you haven’t noticed, I recently decided to start taking advantage of the “holiday” portion of my “working holiday” in New Zealand. I figured it was best I embraced by free time instead of bemoaning the fact that I have yet to find work. Besides, I had completely neglected one of the most recommended and free things to do in Wellington: climbing Mount Victoria.

Top of Mt Victoria — The views from the lookout are incredible

Now, I set out unawares that it would actually be much of a “climb.” This may be because the official and unofficial things I read called it a walk and not a hike. (And I didn’t take the recommended “walkway” because I am an internet skimmer. So my fault on that one.)

One of the steep hills along the Lookout Walkway

Anyway, I prepared for my hike by wearing my reliable chucks, and a fancier sweater than was probably necessary. Because I don’t read full articles, I took the “Lookout Walkway” as opposed to the “Southern Walkway,” because the first one seemed a bit shorter. And while it was definitely shorter, it was also very steep. Furthermore, I probably missed out on some stellar views along the way.

Stairs — One of the hills had a set of staircases. It was a small miracle

The 30-minute walk, however, is entirely worth it, no matter what route you choose to take. That’s because upon making it to the top, you get beautiful 360-degree views from more than 643 feet above Wellington. From the green mountains to the sea, to the airport, every part of the view makes your heart beat and is worth every ounce of sweat that rolls down your back.

But in addition to the views, there is also something else at the peak that’s not to be missed and that is the Richard Byrd Memorial. If you don’t know who Richard Byrd is, he was an American arctic explorer who used New Zealand as the base for his trips to Antarctica. Unveiled in 1962, the sculpture is in the shape of a polar tent and is built from rocks from Antarctica. The outside of it is covered in artwork depicting the Aurora Australis or “Southern Lights,” which you can sometimes see from the city. And if those unique facts didn’t get your attention, get this: the axis of the memorial points due south. So if you were to follow that line for hundreds of miles you’d eventually reach Antarctica. Pretty cool.

Quick Overview:

Price: Free, unless you count sweat as a cost.

Hours of Operation: Open 24 hours, 7 days a week, although I would suggest taking the hike during the daytime. The outlook is accessible by cars for those who want to catch the sunrise and sunset or see the stars.

Good for: Solo travelers, hikers, photographers, couples looking for a romantic view of the city, families with kids, star-gazers

May 23, 2017February 25, 2018

Wellington Cable Car

One of the things I’ve been most looking forward to doing since moving to Wellington was riding the Cable Car. I don’t know why, but I find something enchanting about old school transportation. I went today and really enjoyed the experience!

A little background on the cable car: It has been running for over 100 years and is the only railway like it in New Zealand. The ride is just 5 minutes long and takes you from the busy streets of Lambton Quay to the quiet suburb of Kelburn. At the top, there are a few fun things to do including the Cable Car Museum, Botanic Gardens, Zealandia Wildlife Sanctuary, and Space Place. There is no fee for the museum or the botanic gardens.

It was a bit chilly and windy when I went so I spent much of my time checking out the views and visiting the museum, but I have plans to take the trip again this weekend.

One of the more obvious views. However, this site alone is worth your ticket up in my opinion

When you get to the top of the mountain, make sure you take a walk around, or you’ll be missing quite a few unique views of the harbor and downtown. The obvious spots to take pictures are right by where the Cable Car lets you off, but if you walk just 5 minutes towards “Space Place,” there is another look out that isn’t too be missed. There is also a nice trail that way that takes you through the mountains, should you want to skip the botanical gardens.

The museum is small but manages to include what seemed like a day’s worth of reading on its walls. I would say the main attractions for me were the two older cars that used to run the tracks. The “Red Rattler” from the 1950s even had seats on the outside, which I found especially interesting; in addition to the obvious dangers of being on the outside, I also think it would be quite cold, given Wellington’s famous winds.

The “Red Rattler” car was used on the line between the 1950s and 1970s

The other car, from the early 1900’s was plain gorgeous. While it’s missing the now-iconic red hue, the victorian design and colors are quite charming.

“Grip Car No. 3” carried passengers in the early 1900s

Something else I should note about the museum is its situated inside the original “winding house” for the cable car. In fact, you can still see the original winding mechanism that pulled the cars up and down the mountainside!

One of the original gears used to pull cars up the mountainside

The only other exhibit inside the museum (I told you it was small) features model trains, which always make me think of Sheldon Cooper from the “Big Bang Theory.” They were fun to look at and take pictures of, and one of the buildings kind of looks like Hogwarts, so I would recommend checking them out.

The Cable Car Museum model train exhibit was fun and sure to be a highlight for any kid

Finally, the most surprising part of today’s adventure was the light shows hidden inside the tunnels along the mountain. I didn’t expect to see these installations on a historic railway but really did enjoy them. And make sure you don’t just look at them going through; the patterns are not to be missed…so sit near the front or rear of the car so you can watch them dance.