Auckland’s West Coast beaches

Blog Title West Coast Beaches, Auckland New Zealand

Beaches, for the most part, have consistently inspired me to write and tell stories. It’s always been this way; I distinctly remember taking a journal with me on family vacations to the Maryland and New Jersey shores as a teen and writing bad teenage poetry while my sisters played in the ocean.

Lion Rock and Piha Beach as seen from the Tasman lookout trail
Lion Rock and Piha Beach as seen from the Tasman lookout trail

While my writing style has changed, I do tend to find myself still picking up the pen after a trip to the beach. There’s something about the saltwater air and the calming sounds of the waves that put me in touch with myself and my deepest thoughts like nowhere else in the world. The beach is my happy place.

But for the first time in what feels like forever, I found a visited a few beaches that simply don’t inspire me in that way.

Yes, I enjoyed my trip to Auckland’s West Coast beaches a few months ago, but I didn’t leave feeling at peace, and I certainly didn’t feel like writing about it. In fact, I’ve been avoiding writing this post since December and have been struggling to figure out why that is.

Piha, Anawhata, and Karekare are unanimously considered some of the most beautiful beaches in New Zealand. They all have unique, bulky, rock formations that jut out from the coast and a feeling of privacy that is hard to come by in most regions of the world. (In fact, when I was at Anawhata we were the only ones on the beach at all.) But I’m not in any hurry to go back to see them again.

A picture of Lion Rock showing off it's feline appearance
A picture of Lion Rock showing off its feline appearance

This isn’t because I don’t see and appreciate the beauty of these largely untouched areas of New Zealand, after all, Piha’s sunset is in the running for my favorite of all time. I have beautiful pictures and amazing memories from all three, but they don’t sit in my heart the way other beaches do. Instead, I feel about them the way I feel about the mountains: peaceful and gorgeous, but not for me.

Perhaps this is because I couldn’t be bothered to get in the water because it felt like ice on my toes or the cloudiness that hung around for almost my entire visit, but my heart doesn’t flutter when thinking back to these beaches the way it does when I think of beaches in Australia, Florida, or even New Jersey.

I wish it was different, especially because the friends I went with absolutely adore these locations, but it’s not. That being said, I’d be remiss if I didn’t share a few details about each one.

Piha

Piha seen from the road to the beach
Piha as seen from the road to the beach

Perhaps the most well known of the beaches on this list, Piha certainly lives up to its hype as a surfer’s paradise. In fact, I would recommend you don’t come to the beach without a board of some kind: the waves are violent and intense no matter the weather. (In fact, the surf here is so often dangerous there is an entire reality show about it on TVNZ called “Piha Rescue.”)

Because Piha is both the most well known and most easily accessible, it is also the most crowded on this list. However, “crowded” has a different meaning in New Zealand: as my mom pointed out during our video chat, 200 people on a beach anywhere else in the world wouldn’t be considered busy at all.

Amiekay and her coat at Tasman Lookout
Amiekay and her coat at Tasman Lookout
The Gap seen from the Tasman Lookout in Piha
The Gap as seen from the Tasman Lookout in Piha

The nice thing about Piha is there is so much to do and see, even if you don’t particularly like ice cold waves. From the beach, you can climb the famous Lion Rock or take a walk to the Tasman Lookout for an amazing view of the beach. Additionally, there are two coffee shops and a general store in the area, meaning you won’t go hungry if you forget to pack a lunch!

If you have the time and are looking to get away from the crowds and see a beautiful sunset, you can make the 30-minute walk (or 5-minute drive) up to the less crowded North Piha Beach. Once there, go to the very end of the beach where you will find a colony of rocks amidst the sand. As the sun sets, the rays bounce off the rocks and water, giving the visitor a natural and beautiful light show.

The sun shines through rock formations on North Piha Beach
The sun shines through rock formations on North Piha Beach
Sunset at North Piha Beach
Sunset at North Piha Beach

Karekare

A pile of driftwood on Karekare beach
A pile of driftwood on Karekare beach

Made famous in the Oscar-winning movie “The Piano,” Karekare is about a 50-minute drive from Auckland. But once you park your car, you still have some walking to do: the beach is off-set from the parking lot by a boarded path, and then a long stretch of sand before you get to the water. Once there, you will be rewarded with its beautiful black sand and well-known pyramid rock formation that sits amidst the areas strong waves.

I didn’t spend a lot of time in Karekare myself, but there are walks in the area, including one to Karekare Falls. They appear a bit similar to Kitekite falls in Piha, and may be an alternative to anyone interested in avoiding the area in an effort to protect the Kauri Trees.

As far as amenities go, you have some public restrooms but that’s it. It is a bit of a drive to get to and from the beach, so make sure you pack food and water.

Anawhata
Overlooking Anawhata
Overlooking Anawhata

Heralded as one of New Zealand’s “best-kept secrets,” Anawhata is particularly difficult to get to, especially at the moment: several of the tracks in the area are closed as part of an ongoing effort to protect the Kauri forest. (To read more about this, check out my post on my hike to Kitekite falls.) However, there is at least one path to the beach that is open, just be prepared for a bit of a hike to get there. (Pure New Zealand, amirite?)

A fallen Kauri tree on the path to Anawhata Beach
A fallen Kauri tree on the path to Anawhata Beach

This 20 to 30-minute walk is a good thing though for anyone who likes privacy, as it keeps the crowds away from Anawhata. (I was there over the busy Christmas period and we were the only people on the beach.)

If you like surfing and can manage to carry your surfboard the whole way, Anawhata, similar to Piha, is known for having good waves. And if you’re a wuss like me, there’s also a few dry activities to take part in: there are several beautiful rock pools to explore, many of which are covered with baby mussels.

Mussels line the rocks at Anawhata
Mussels line the rocks at Anawhata
A close-up of mussels on rocks in Anawhata
A close-up of mussels on rocks in Anawhata

As far as amenities go, Anawhata has none as it takes both a drive and a bush walk to get here, so if you plan on staying for awhile, make sure you’re prepared.

Anawhata from the trail to get there
Anawhata from the trail to get there

Hiking to Kitekite Falls

Hiking to Kitekite Falls amiekaysaventure

Sometimes we do things we aren’t proud of while traveling, and my walk through the bush to see the Kitekite falls is one of them.

Sure, the views were beautiful, but I feel like I dishonored the sacred land by making the hike.

Kitekite falls
The beautiful Kitekite falls in Piha, New Zealand

Here’s some background: the Kitekite falls are located near Piha Beach, which is about an hour’s drive west of Auckland. They’re stunning and beautiful, and open to the public. You see, normally there is no reason for anyone to feel guilty about going to see them. But right now, I am going to advise you to not do what I did and avoid this area for the time being.

You see, the area around the falls is home to a Kauri forest and Kauri trees are considered kings of the New Zealand forest by the Maori people. They are giant and beautiful, and unfortunately, a lot of them were chopped down by European settlers when they first arrived in New Zealand. However, in recent years, the New Zealand government has taken measures to protect the remaining trees and the forest is slowly coming back to life.

Amiekay inside the stump of a dead Kauri tree in Piha
Me inside of the stump of a dead Kauri tree

Unfortunately, over the last few years, many of the trees have fallen ill due to a parasite which is referred to as Kauri dieback. There’s no cure for the dieback, and in order to keep the parasite from spreading, several people in the area have petitioned the government to close the forests to visitors until it heals. And to their credit, a lot of the trails have been shut down, but many are still open. And while there are places to wash your shoes before continuing into the forest, the move doesn’t fully protect the trees and an area considered sacred by the Maori.

A stream spotted on the Kitekite track in Piha
The Kitekite track is full of beautiful greenery, and feels extremely tropical

I knew none of this when I started my hike to the falls, but one-third of the way into the hike, a volunteer at the entrance to the shoe cleaning station did explain why the station was there, and why we should consider turning around. I will say I felt as if I should turn back, but didn’t listen to my gut and went anyway.

The hike itself is beautiful. The walk through the forest is fairly easy and breathtaking, and it only takes about an hour and a half round trip to get to the falls and back, although you can continue onwards if you choose to.

A bridge along the Kitekite track in Piha
A bridge hikers take on their walk to the Kitekite Falls

The falls themselves are worth every single second of the walk. They stand about 130 feet high and can appear even larger if you continue to the lookout, as there are a smaller waterfall and pool directly above it. They are beautiful and stunning and I am happy I saw them in person.

Still, its been a few weeks since I went on the hike, and I have yet to get over the fact that I did something that could harm the forest, and furthermore, disturb a sacred area because I know better. I strive to be an eco-conscious traveler at all times, and also do my best to adhere to the customs and beliefs of the people the country I am visiting. And while in this particular instance I was with other people I still could’ve spoken up and not continued.

Amiekay in front of Kitekite falls
This was right after my right foot fell into the water

Unfortunately, this is in the past and is something I can’t change. But I can tell you the story and try and prevent someone from making the same mistake. While there are some news stories about the paths that have been closed to the public, there is not a lot out there is written about the Kauri trees and the forest around Kitekite Falls that I can find. I think that’s a shame because it is a popular attraction, and people should really know what’s going on before they get there. After all, if you drive all the way out there to see the falls, chances are you aren’t going to want to turn around halfway through. But now that you know at the very least you can go there and make a conscious decision either not to go, or to take some precautions, such as cleaning your shoes of any soil before arriving onsite.

To learn more about the Kauri trees and the disease killing them and how you can help save the trees, please check out this website: https://www.kauridieback.co.nz

Kitekite falls through plants
Kitekite falls seen through the plants along the track

Rotorua Hot Springs on a Budget

New Zealand is known for its unique and beautiful landscape. From Milford Sound in the South Island to the Tongariro Alpine Crossing in the North, this country is made for people who love the outdoors. And while some are free, a lot of them end up costing you a bit of money. For instance, even though the Tongariro is free to hike, you have to pay a shuttle to drop you off and pick you up because of parking rules in the area. For Milford Sound, you really need to hire a boat or kayak to access the area’s gorgeous views.

The hot pools and hot springs in Rotorua are no different. The most amazing sights in this area all charge an entry fee. I understand in this case some of it is to protect and preserve the natural resources, but it can get pricey for anyone on a budget. But there is a free option.

Kuirau Park is located on the edge of Rotorua’s downtown and is home to several natural examples of geothermal activity in the area. Sure, the sights aren’t nearly as colorful as those in the paying attractions, but you can certainly get the feel of what makes this place unique. (Including the sulphuric smell!)

Kuirau Park is mostly home to different pools of bubbling, hot mud. While this is actually quite neat to see, the main attraction here is the area’s massive boiling lake.

One of the many mud pools at Kuirau Park

Kuirau Lake is fairly large, and there are pathways built all the way around it for you to see it safely. Full of dead trees and smoke rising from the lake, the whole area feels like a villain’s secret lair. Making the whole atmosphere even more spooky? A story behind its name and founding that sounds like the plot of a horror movie. According to Maori Legend, Lake Kuirau used to be a cooler lake and was called Taokahu. In fact, they say it was cool enough that people could bath in the water, and that’s exactly what a woman named

Kuirau Lake
One of the viewing platforms at Kuirau Lake
Walk through the smoke at Kuirau Lake using this platform over the water, but be warned: it is quite smelly

According to Maori Legend, Lake Kuirau used to be a cooler lake and was called Taokahu. In fact, they say it was cool enough that people could bath in the water, and that’s exactly what a woman named Kuiarau was doing when a legendary creature name Taniwha dragged her to his lair below the lake. Legend has it this action angered the gods, who made the lake boil to kill Taniwha. The lake has been boiling since and was renamed after the woman who died.

Makes you want to visit, doesn’t it?

As I said previously, Kuirau’s attractions aren’t all that colorful and are fairly limited in scope. (It’s mostly mud, outside the lake.) Kuirau Park is also missing a place for you to actually get in the water, although there is a place to dip your feet in. Personally, I was okay not getting into any hot pools, as they are breeding grounds for amoebas that lead to meningitis. But if that’s your thing, there are a lot of free pools outside of downtown for you to take a dip in.

The lush, tropical greens in other parts of the park are in stark contrast to the dead plants dotting Kuirau Lake

Kuirau Park is uniquely beautiful, and I highly recommend it to anyone who appreciates a spooky location and doesn’t have a lot of money. It’s an especially useful find for backpackers in the area who don’t own a car to make it out to the paying attractions, which are all a bit of a drive outside of the city.

However, if you are willing to spend money, check back next week when I take you through some of the colorful attractions at Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland.

This shot of Kuirau Lake makes me think of Scar’s Pridelands from Disney’s “The Lion King”

5 Reasons You Should Skip Rere Rockslide and 5 Reasons its a Must-Do

I recently took the plunge and rode down one of New Zealand’s most unique attractions: the Rere Rockslide. Here are some reasons why I think you should go, and a few why it may be something to take off your list.

5 Reasons to Pass it Up:

1. The water is cold.

 

Like, really cold. Have you ever put your finger in an ice cube tray a few minutes before it turns solid? That’s about how cold the water is at Rere. And no, it doesn’t depend on the season since its fresh water in a little stream.

 

2. Sandflies will bite you

 

I don’t know why these things are called Sandflies since they actually live in the dirt of the forests here in New Zealand. Nonetheless, these things are everywhere around the rock slide. They look like gnats, and because your feet will be numb from the cold water, you don’t realize they’re biting you until you see your feet bleeding.

 

The top of the slide offers a pretty view as well

 

3. The walk from the bottom is slippery and dangerous

 

The rockslide is a natural phenomenon, which makes it really cool. But also, because this is 100% Pure New Zealand, that means there are no man-made steps or safety precautions. This means you are walking up wet rock to get back to the top.

 

4. It’s out of the way. Like, really out of the way.

 

It’s about 100 km, or 45 minutes outside of Gisborne. Aside from a small waterfall and the rockslide itself, there’s really nothing else in Rere to see or do.
Rere’s other attraction: Rere Waterfalls

 

5. BYOB – Bring Your Own Board

 

A lot of places advertise that you can rent boogie/body boards at the site, but that wasn’t the case when I was there, so I would be prepared with your own. However, if you do bring one, make sure its a cheap one, as the rockslide is known for busting them up pretty badly.

 

5 Reasons it’s Not to Be Missed:

 

1. It is fun!

 

Once you start going down the slide, you forget how numb your feet are. The slide is exactly as exciting as the viral videos make it out to be.

 

2. There’s nowhere else like it in the world

 

Honestly, if you’re in New Zealand, this is one of those things I would count as a “must do,” since this is unique to the country. (Unlike, say bungee jumping or skydiving.)

 

3. It’s free

 

Aside from the cost of the boogie board and the petrol to get you there, the Rere rockslide is completely free.

 

It doesn’t look too daunting from here, but when you’re there in person, its actually a bit unnerving

 

4. Your friends will judge you if you skip it

 

The moment I told people I was moving to New Zealand, I was sent this video of the Rere Rockslide by a number of people with the phrase “you have to do this.” (I am not the only person who moved here and experienced this pressure.) So really, if you’re going to come all this way, you might as well take the plunge

 

5. You’ll make new friends.

 

If you come prepared with your own board, there’s guaranteed to be someone else who wasn’t prepared and will want to borrow yours. Or vice versa. Either way, it’s a great conversation starter.

 

Me posing with our $10NZD boogie board post-slide

Long LAX Layovers: Don’t do them

Long LAX Layovers Title Amiekay's Adventure

I usually don’t mind layovers. There’s something exciting to me about being in an airport surrounded by people coming and going from all over. Better yet, layovers that are more than a few hours long let you go out an explore a new destination.

Unfortunately, that’s not true at Los Angeles International Airport in California, USA. At least if you have a checked bag.

My flight to Wellington from Baltimore was all on the same booking and with partner airlines. However, I had to pick up my bags in LAX because I had a 12 hour layover. No big deal, I thought; I’ll either check my bags through to my next flight or pay to drop them off somewhere.

Unfortunately, I ended up doing neither because I’m moving on a budget and well, I don’t have $100 laying around.

But in case you want to know what your options are with baggage at LAX, here they are

1. Check your bags through to your destination 

This may be harder than it sounds, especially flying internationally at LAX because the ticketing counters in the Tom Bradley International Terminal change. That means, if you’re flying a smaller airline (like Fiji Airways, in my case) there may not be an assigned counter when you arrive because there are no scheduled flights. Furthermore, some airlines won’t take your baggage until a certain time.

2. Pay a company to watch your baggage offsite

There are no lockers at the airport for security reasons in our post-9/11 world. All are at least a mile away, but you do have options:

• LAX Luggage Storage: I almost used this company because of it’s sheer convenience. For $5 per bag LAX Luggage Storage will pick up your bags from the airport, and for another $5 per bag you can have them drop it off as well. This doesn’t include gratuity or the price of storage (around $10 a day per bag.)

• LAX 24/7 Locker RentalsThis option is far more affordable, but be advised it is quite a walk if you’re one person with 3 bags. For a maximum of $24 a day, you can rent a large locker which can fit your full-sized checked bag and likely another small item. If you need more than that you’ll have to pay for another locker, and walk those suckers to and from the airport

3. Rent a car 

Honestly, this may be your best option. For about $45 a day you can rent a car and drive it to the sites you want to see. And it comes with a storage option: your trunk. The only downside to this is traffic and the price of parking (if you can find it.)If you do choose to use a baggage drop off, remember that doesn’t include your transportation, and most of what you want to see is at least a $10 Lyft ride each way. However, there is an In & Out near the airport so, you could always do that.

As for me, a nice family flying our gave me one of the sodas they couldn’t take through security, so at least that is a win.

Now, if I had been able to get my hands on a Nintendo Switch, getting stuck at the airport wouldn’t be a problem.