If you love lighthouses, New Zealand is the place to be. Honestly, I think I’ve walked and hiked to more lighthouses in the Wellington area in the past 7 months then I did my entire life in the states.
That being said, when it comes to my favorite lighthouse here, that would easily be the one at Castlepoint.
The small town of Castlepoint is about a 2 and a half hour drive outside Wellington in the Wairarapa Region. It’s pretty rural and home to just over 1,600 people. But what it lacks in residents it makes up for in pure beauty.
The obvious attraction at the Castlepoint scenic reserve is the lighthouse, but that’s not all there is to see. Because this is New Zealand, there is also a trail for you to climb, in addition to a number of sandy beaches.
Upon arrival, you’re going to want to climb to the lighthouse first thing, but I would advise you save that for last. That’s because the walk to the lighthouse is quite easy and quick, so you won’t need a lot of energy to get it done. However, you’ll need a bit more to finish and enjoy the Deliverance Cove track, so I suggest you do that first. (And trust me, I don’t suggest hikes unless they are worth it!)
The trek is only about 45 minutes long and is mostly flat. It starts at the parking lot and takes you around the area’s picturesque lagoon. The actual trek ends on the beach, but if you are daring, fit and confident, there is a hidden (and harder) trek that offers beautiful views from above.
I am generally a rule-follower, and had I been to Castlepoint alone I probably would’ve ended up on the beach. (Also, because I dream to spend every day of my life on the sand.) However, on the day I explored Castlepoint, I went with my friend Rose, who is definitely more on the adventurous side. (Also she doesn’t like sand.) Rose saw a few people climbing up to the top of Castle Rock instead of down, so we followed.
To be clear: while there were a lot of other people headed up the rock with us, this climb is not an official track. There is no path that is cared for or maintained by anyone, and it is steep. At times, it feels like you are going up the rock at a 90-degree angle. And if that wasn’t tricky enough, there are no trees or shelter to shield you from the area’s wind, so you really have to find secure places to land your feet, and occasionally take a seat to make sure you are grounded.
But like any great hike here in New Zealand, the views from the top are spectacular. You can see so much from the top of Castle Rock: from the beach at Deliverance Cove, to the tiny town of Castlepoint, to the lighthouse, to the stunning blues and turquoise of the Pacific Ocean, it is breathtaking. So far, I think it has to be my favorite vantage point I have climbed to in New Zealand.
But what goes up, must come down. The hike to Deliverance Cove is one way, meaning you have to return on the same path. This isn’t an issue on the official track, as it is big enough for pedestrians in both directions, however, that is not the case for the unofficial climb up and down the rock. This means you have to find creative ways around people going in the other direction, while also fighting gravity and wind. It wasn’t incredibly difficult, but it is a hazard to be aware of. Luckily for me, it was something that was encountered on the way down.
After returning to the parking lot, its a quick walk over the beach to the lighthouse trek. The walk itself starts actually starts along a rock in the water, which means the installed concrete path is sometimes wet from the tide. From there, its a bunch of simple wooden boardwalks over the water and apparently a reef, to the lighthouse.
This area is apparently known for marine mammals and birds, although I have to say we didn’t see anything other than seagulls on our visit. Still, the scenery and jagged, rocky coast are stunning. It reminded me a little of forts on the sea, like Castillo de San Marcos in St Augustine, Florida. It’s a feeling Captain James Cook also shared, having named the place “Castlepoint” because it reminded him of the battlements of a castle.
I could’ve spent the day there, but it was quite windy and neither of us had brought our bathing suits or fishing rods, so we headed home shortly after the trip to the lighthouse. On the way back we stopped at Tinui Bar and Cafe. Now, for any tourists visiting the area this is a must because this place sells the best, and least-expensive Manuka Honey of anywhere I’ve been in this country. For about $14 NZD ($9.50 USD,) you can get a jar of this stuff, that is not only tasty but is also known worldwide for its medicinal properties. This is why Manuka Honey usually runs upwards $30 to $50 NZD a jar, and why this is such an amazing find.
In all, if you ever find yourself in the Wellington Region on a summer’s day, make sure you make the drive to Castlepoint. It is the best day trip any beach or lighthouse lover can take. And hey, there’s a hike too.
