I think I’ve said it before, but it bears repeating: the nice thing about Wellington New Zealand is you can be in a somewhat-bustling city one minute and on a beautiful hiking path the next. While I’ve written about quite a few of them already, (check out my favorite here,) I recently walked yet another one. The Paekakariki Escarpment Track is a bit newer than the others but still offers gorgeous New Zealand bush and scenery.
A view of Kapiti Island from the Paekakariki Escarpment Track
The track runs high above State Highway 1 along the Kapiti Coast between Paekakariki in the North and Pukerua Bay in the South. It takes about 3 hours to complete and offers unparalleled views of the ocean and Kapiti Island. Interestingly, it also goes through a residential area and through a closed railway station on its southern end.
The track isn’t a long one, but it isn’t easy. It’s a lot of ups and downs and zig-zagging through the bush along the side of the mountains. A lot of it is exposed, so be prepared for those infamous Wellington winds, and strong sunshine.
A view of the ocean, coast line from the Paekakariki Escarpment Track
The Paekakariki Escarpment Track also earns its nickname “The Stairway to Heaven.” There are stairs almost through the entire walk, and at one point there are around 200 in a row. The good news? If you take the trail from North to South you can go down the stairway instead of up them. Just note that you will still be going upstairs at many points, even in this direction, there just won’t be 200 in a row.
A particular highlight of the walk for me was the two suspension bridges between some of the rolling hills. Not only are they fun to walk across, they are also a great spot for selfies.
One of the suspension bridges along the track
Getting there:
We went by train, but you can also drive to the area if you have a car. Just know if you do this you will either have to do the track in both directions or plan to take a train or uber back to your car at the end.
If you go by train: purchase a day pass for $14. This is only a few dollars more than the one-way ticket and will save you money.
Before you go:
There is no water along the track, so make sure to pack an extra bottle. You’ll need it
The track is exposed much of the way, so be prepared for possibly strong sun, wind or cold, depending on the day.
At one point there is no track, just a ledge, and a rope. It’s fairly safe, but if you’re afraid of heights it could be a bit daunting.
I would recommend bringing snacks and planning to take a break about halfway through. There are several benches along the way and at least one picnic table.
Part of the path that goes through a residential area
Sometimes we do things we aren’t proud of while traveling, and my walk through the bush to see the Kitekite falls is one of them.
Sure, the views were beautiful, but I feel like I dishonored the sacred land by making the hike.
The beautiful Kitekite falls in Piha, New Zealand
Here’s some background: the Kitekite falls are located near Piha Beach, which is about an hour’s drive west of Auckland. They’re stunning and beautiful, and open to the public. You see, normally there is no reason for anyone to feel guilty about going to see them. But right now, I am going to advise you to not do what I did and avoid this area for the time being.
You see, the area around the falls is home to a Kauri forest and Kauri trees are considered kings of the New Zealand forest by the Maori people. They are giant and beautiful, and unfortunately, a lot of them were chopped down by European settlers when they first arrived in New Zealand. However, in recent years, the New Zealand government has taken measures to protect the remaining trees and the forest is slowly coming back to life.
Me inside of the stump of a dead Kauri tree
Unfortunately, over the last few years, many of the trees have fallen ill due to a parasite which is referred to as Kauri dieback. There’s no cure for the dieback, and in order to keep the parasite from spreading, several people in the area have petitioned the government to close the forests to visitors until it heals. And to their credit, a lot of the trails have been shut down, but many are still open. And while there are places to wash your shoes before continuing into the forest, the move doesn’t fully protect the trees and an area considered sacred by the Maori.
The Kitekite track is full of beautiful greenery, and feels extremely tropical
I knew none of this when I started my hike to the falls, but one-third of the way into the hike, a volunteer at the entrance to the shoe cleaning station did explain why the station was there, and why we should consider turning around. I will say I felt as if I should turn back, but didn’t listen to my gut and went anyway.
The hike itself is beautiful. The walk through the forest is fairly easy and breathtaking, and it only takes about an hour and a half round trip to get to the falls and back, although you can continue onwards if you choose to.
A bridge hikers take on their walk to the Kitekite Falls
The falls themselves are worth every single second of the walk. They stand about 130 feet high and can appear even larger if you continue to the lookout, as there are a smaller waterfall and pool directly above it. They are beautiful and stunning and I am happy I saw them in person.
Still, its been a few weeks since I went on the hike, and I have yet to get over the fact that I did something that could harm the forest, and furthermore, disturb a sacred area because I know better. I strive to be an eco-conscious traveler at all times, and also do my best to adhere to the customs and beliefs of the people the country I am visiting. And while in this particular instance I was with other people I still could’ve spoken up and not continued.
This was right after my right foot fell into the water
Unfortunately, this is in the past and is something I can’t change. But I can tell you the story and try and prevent someone from making the same mistake. While there are some news stories about the paths that have been closed to the public, there is not a lot out there is written about the Kauri trees and the forest around Kitekite Falls that I can find. I think that’s a shame because it is a popular attraction, and people should really know what’s going on before they get there. After all, if you drive all the way out there to see the falls, chances are you aren’t going to want to turn around halfway through. But now that you know at the very least you can go there and make a conscious decision either not to go, or to take some precautions, such as cleaning your shoes of any soil before arriving onsite.
To learn more about the Kauri trees and the disease killing them and how you can help save the trees, please check out this website: https://www.kauridieback.co.nz
Kitekite falls seen through the plants along the track
If you love lighthouses, New Zealand is the place to be. Honestly, I think I’ve walked and hiked to more lighthouses in the Wellington area in the past 7 months then I did my entire life in the states.
That being said, when it comes to my favorite lighthouse here, that would easily be the one at Castlepoint.
Castle Point’s main, but not only attraction
The small town of Castlepoint is about a 2 and a half hour drive outside Wellington in the Wairarapa Region. It’s pretty rural and home to just over 1,600 people. But what it lacks in residents it makes up for in pure beauty.
The obvious attraction at the Castlepoint scenic reserve is the lighthouse, but that’s not all there is to see. Because this is New Zealand, there is also a trail for you to climb, in addition to a number of sandy beaches.
Upon arrival, you’re going to want to climb to the lighthouse first thing, but I would advise you save that for last. That’s because the walk to the lighthouse is quite easy and quick, so you won’t need a lot of energy to get it done. However, you’ll need a bit more to finish and enjoy the Deliverance Cove track, so I suggest you do that first. (And trust me, I don’t suggest hikes unless they are worth it!)
The trek is only about 45 minutes long and is mostly flat. It starts at the parking lot and takes you around the area’s picturesque lagoon. The actual trek ends on the beach, but if you are daring, fit and confident, there is a hidden (and harder) trek that offers beautiful views from above.
The view from Castle Rock of Deliverance CoveA look back at the path to the top
I am generally a rule-follower, and had I been to Castlepoint alone I probably would’ve ended up on the beach. (Also, because I dream to spend every day of my life on the sand.) However, on the day I explored Castlepoint, I went with my friend Rose, who is definitely more on the adventurous side. (Also she doesn’t like sand.) Rose saw a few people climbing up to the top of Castle Rock instead of down, so we followed.
To be clear: while there were a lot of other people headed up the rock with us, this climb is not an official track. There is no path that is cared for or maintained by anyone, and it is steep. At times, it feels like you are going up the rock at a 90-degree angle. And if that wasn’t tricky enough, there are no trees or shelter to shield you from the area’s wind, so you really have to find secure places to land your feet, and occasionally take a seat to make sure you are grounded.
But like any great hike here in New Zealand, the views from the top are spectacular. You can see so much from the top of Castle Rock: from the beach at Deliverance Cove, to the tiny town of Castlepoint, to the lighthouse, to the stunning blues and turquoise of the Pacific Ocean, it is breathtaking. So far, I think it has to be my favorite vantage point I have climbed to in New Zealand.
Deliverance Cove
But what goes up, must come down. The hike to Deliverance Cove is one way, meaning you have to return on the same path. This isn’t an issue on the official track, as it is big enough for pedestrians in both directions, however, that is not the case for the unofficial climb up and down the rock. This means you have to find creative ways around people going in the other direction, while also fighting gravity and wind. It wasn’t incredibly difficult, but it is a hazard to be aware of. Luckily for me, it was something that was encountered on the way down.
After returning to the parking lot, its a quick walk over the beach to the lighthouse trek. The walk itself starts actually starts along a rock in the water, which means the installed concrete path is sometimes wet from the tide. From there, its a bunch of simple wooden boardwalks over the water and apparently a reef, to the lighthouse.
This area is apparently known for marine mammals and birds, although I have to say we didn’t see anything other than seagulls on our visit. Still, the scenery and jagged, rocky coast are stunning. It reminded me a little of forts on the sea, like Castillo de San Marcos in St Augustine, Florida. It’s a feeling Captain James Cook also shared, having named the place “Castlepoint” because it reminded him of the battlements of a castle.
The castle-like rocks that hold the lighthouse
I could’ve spent the day there, but it was quite windy and neither of us had brought our bathing suits or fishing rods, so we headed home shortly after the trip to the lighthouse. On the way back we stopped at Tinui Bar and Cafe. Now, for any tourists visiting the area this is a must because this place sells the best, and least-expensive Manuka Honey of anywhere I’ve been in this country. For about $14 NZD ($9.50 USD,) you can get a jar of this stuff, that is not only tasty but is also known worldwide for its medicinal properties. This is why Manuka Honey usually runs upwards $30 to $50 NZD a jar, and why this is such an amazing find.
In all, if you ever find yourself in the Wellington Region on a summer’s day, make sure you make the drive to Castlepoint. It is the best day trip any beach or lighthouse lover can take. And hey, there’s a hike too.
The lighthouse, with Deliverance Cove and Castle Point in the background
Right now, I am supposed to be hiking. Specifically, I am supposed to be hiking this trek, which fans of the “Lord of the Rings” movie series will recognize. But instead, I am in a coffee shop. This isn’t because the trip was canceled; the rest of the hiking party is out there right now and the weather is beautiful. No, I’m not hiking because it seems New Zealand continues to want to laugh at me and my plans.
You see, the joy I’ve been getting from working out at the gym resulted in me spraining my ankle. And this wasn’t just any little ankle twist; I tore 2 of the 3 main ligaments in the joint, and that means I won’t be doing any potentially high-impact activity for one to two weeks.
And guys, this really had me down. As I mentioned in my last post, I was finally finding ways to combat my homesickness by getting out and doing things, things I now can’t do. I was so excited for this nerdy and exciting trip and had a blog post planned about it. I was going to join the gym after my two-week trial and lose the extra weight I put on. In other words, I was going to take back my life starting this week. And then I fell the wrong way on my foot in an aerobics class I wasn’t particularly enjoying and all of my plans had been put on hold. (Not to mention I spent $120 NZD on a doctor’s visit and prescriptions even though I’m told it should’ve been covered by ACC.)
I spent most of yesterday in bed down in the dumps. I mean, this is obviously not the spot I wanted to be in at this point of my trip. Not when the weather is finally warm-ish, and not as I was finally getting back to being myself and finally feeling like I am ready to take on New Zealand. I spent much of yesterday in bed moping and on the verge of tears; being injured made me realize just how alone I am on this side of the world. It made me once again, really miss a lot of the luxuries I gave up in the States for this adventure. (Health insurance, a car, and especially my own warm apartment.)
Well, the doctor said I could still walk on my foot, so I decided to take the 40-minute round-trip yesterday evening to the super market to buy ingredients for my weekly meal prep. I did this basically to feel like I hadn’t wasted the entire day, but it felt good to realize I was still mobile (even though I could feel my injury on the walk back,) and it was nice to get out of the house if only briefly. But then, a really great thing happened when I returned to my flat. You see, when I arrived, my neighbor’s cat bolted out of nowhere and ran up to my door, demanding pets and cuddles.
Alby, the neighbor’s cat who likes to cheat on his owners with a lot of people in the area, including me. (This is an old photo, but the best one I have of him.)
Now, before I go further I want to let you know that cats cheating on their owners is a bit of a thing in New Zealand. Unlike in the States, cat owners here are encouraged, if not required, to allow their cats outside on a regular basis. (Seriously, it was a question my friend was asked by the SPCA when she adopted her pet, but more on Elliot the Adventure Cat later.) I say this, not so we can debate the merits of letting cats roam your neighborhood, but because I want to let you know that when I let Alby into my flat this wasn’t unusual or weird culturally. It’s just a normal thing here, and our neighbor is fine with it as long as we don’t feed him.
In any case, Alby’s visit to my doorstep and my flat was exactly what I needed to cheer me up. He stayed just long enough to remind me I was not alone, and that it was all going to be okay. Seriously, a purring cat really is the best medicine. And since then things have been looking up. Sure, I’m not on my hike today, but maybe I can go on one in a few weeks. And, I mean, at least I sprained my ankle before I signed up for the gym because now I’m not paying for a week where I can’t really use it. I also got another gift today from a friend who messaged me this morning about going to a really great restaurant for lunch today as part of the “Wellington On a Plate” event, something I’ve been dying to do all month.
My “Wellington On a Plate” meal at The Arborist: Blackberry and sloe gin-cured salmon and the “Beetlejuice” cocktail
So I apologize for the lack of gorgeous New Zealand scenery photos; I really did intend to bring you a bunch of them this weekend but alas, my foot had different ideas. But, as I said in my last post, I didn’t spend a bunch of money on hiking boots not to use them though, so I’m sure there’s at least a trail or two in my future.
I’m still on an uphill trek at the moment, but at least it is a pretty one. (A previously unpublished photo from my hike at Mt Victoria.)
So here’s an update you weren’t expecting: I went on an actual hike, like on purpose. (Or was it more of a long walk? This definition is sort of up to debate amongst my friends.) Either way, I took time out a few days ago to see nature and guys, I actually enjoyed it.
One of the views that made the dirty shoes worth the walk
Here’s how it happened: after a long night out (you wouldn’t believe if I told you what time I went to bed,) a friend of mine messaged me the next afternoon and asked if I wanted to go and see live, wild seals. Not really thinking about my dehydration or really anything other than the fact I would get to see seals I immediately said yes. I didn’t think to ask how long it would be, or what kind of shoes to wear. (However, since I only own things that fit in a suitcase, I wouldn’t have had too many choices for the latter.) That being said, I am going to assume my enthusiasm and adrenaline got me through the next few hours, because looking back, I’m not really sure how I managed to make it the 2 and a half-hour trek otherwise. But regardless, it was totally worth it.
The Te Kopahou Reserve seems like another world, but it is a short drive out of Wellington city center; it took us about 10 minutes to get there. When you arrive at the reserve’s massive parking lot, you’re met with accessible restrooms, water fountains and other amenities so you can make sure you’re prepared before taking the trek. (The only thing it doesn’t have is food, so I suggest you eat whatever you need to get you through the walk before you go.)
This picture screams inspirational quote to me
Once you pass through the gates, be prepared for some breathtaking scenery. The reserve is only open to pedestrians and bikers; if you see a car on the path it must belong to one of the areas few residents, and they are only allowed in a small portion of the beach. (My entire trip we saw just one vehicle.) Most of the trek is also sand, so take that into account when wearing shoes. (Don’t be me and wear chucks!)
The easy walk is 100% worth it and offers some of the most stunning views I have seen so far in New Zealand. It was also the first time in my life I have had the privilege of seeing black sand (which if you haven’t seen is a beautiful site in itself!) The black beaches, jutting rocks and spectacular mountains are really amazing to see. (And this is all before you get to the seals!)
The seal in the background is just showing off
When we finally got to the seal colony about an hour and fifteen minutes from the entrance, I was blown away. We didn’t just see one seal, no these creatures littered just about every rock in the areas “red rock” formation. Because they are conserving energy, it is easy to walk up to them and take a picture. (One did bark at me, but quickly went back to his nap.) I was also really excited to find one laying right along the path, but this excitement quickly subsided after the poor animal threw up. We also came across at least 2 dead seal carcasses, so the path isn’t 100% serene, but it is natural and in my opinion, worth every step.
Another highlight of the walk is the “Devil’s Gate” formation at the top of a mountain near the seal colony. It is the perfect spot to grab an instagram photo to share with your friends at you enter the other side of Middle Earth, although I promise it is too beautiful to be Mordor. (If you are going to take a photo though, I would recommend walking through it and turning around for the best shot. Otherwise, you’ll have a warning sign in your image and also miss the chance to capture the sea and the mountains in the background.)
This is the side not to use (I edited out the warning sign because I mean, just look at it!)My friend Anca took a photo of me on the “right” side
I should also mention this trek also introduced me to Paua shells, a beautiful type of shell unique to New Zealand. They feature iridescent blue, green and purples on their insides. Chances are you’ve heard of them or seen something similar, but that doesn’t make them any less beautiful.
Another inspirational quote photo featuring paua shells
I would like to go back to Te Kopahou Reserve and see the sunset sometime, as the little glimpse we caught of the sun falling behind the clouds was quite beautiful. However, because it is New Zealand there are no lights along the path, you’ll have to be prepared with your own flashlight or torch to get you home. I would also recommend taking the trek with friends or a loved one because it is too beautiful to keep to yourself.
I guess I should invest in some hiking boots.
Speechless
Quick Overview:
Price: Free
Hours of Operation: 24 hours. Take a flashlight if you plan to be out after dark
Good for: Solo travelers, hikers, adventurists, nature-lovers, families with kids old enough to walk, couples, seeing sunrise/sunset, animal lovers
