Paekakariki Escarpment Track

I think I’ve said it before, but it bears repeating: the nice thing about Wellington New Zealand is you can be in a somewhat-bustling city one minute and on a beautiful hiking path the next. While I’ve written about quite a few of them already, (check out my favorite here,) I recently walked yet another one. The Paekakariki Escarpment Track is a bit newer than the others but still offers gorgeous New Zealand bush and scenery.

A view of Kapiti Island from the Paekakariki Escarpment Track
A view of Kapiti Island from the Paekakariki Escarpment Track

The track runs high above State Highway 1 along the Kapiti Coast between Paekakariki in the North and Pukerua Bay in the South. It takes about 3 hours to complete and offers unparalleled views of the ocean and Kapiti Island. Interestingly, it also goes through a residential area and through a closed railway station on its southern end.

The track isn’t a long one, but it isn’t easy. It’s a lot of ups and downs and zig-zagging through the bush along the side of the mountains. A lot of it is exposed, so be prepared for those infamous Wellington winds, and strong sunshine.

A view of the ocean, coast line from the Paekakariki Escarpment Track
A view of the ocean, coast line from the Paekakariki Escarpment Track

The Paekakariki Escarpment Track also earns its nickname “The Stairway to Heaven.” There are stairs almost through the entire walk, and at one point there are around 200 in a row. The good news? If you take the trail from North to South you can go down the stairway instead of up them. Just note that you will still be going upstairs at many points, even in this direction, there just won’t be 200 in a row.

A particular highlight of the walk for me was the two suspension bridges between some of the rolling hills. Not only are they fun to walk across, they are also a great spot for selfies.

One of the suspension bridges along the Paekakariki Escarpement track
One of the suspension bridges along the track

Getting there:

  • We went by train, but you can also drive to the area if you have a car. Just know if you do this you will either have to do the track in both directions or plan to take a train or uber back to your car at the end.
  • If you go by train: purchase a day pass for $14. This is only a few dollars more than the one-way ticket and will save you money.

Before you go:

  • There is no water along the track, so make sure to pack an extra bottle. You’ll need it
  • The track is exposed much of the way, so be prepared for possibly strong sun, wind or cold, depending on the day.
  • At one point there is no track, just a ledge, and a rope. It’s fairly safe, but if you’re afraid of heights it could be a bit daunting.
  • I would recommend bringing snacks and planning to take a break about halfway through. There are several benches along the way and at least one picnic table.
Part of the Paekakariki Track that goes through a residential area
Part of the path that goes through a residential area

Rotorua Hot Springs on a Budget

New Zealand is known for its unique and beautiful landscape. From Milford Sound in the South Island to the Tongariro Alpine Crossing in the North, this country is made for people who love the outdoors. And while some are free, a lot of them end up costing you a bit of money. For instance, even though the Tongariro is free to hike, you have to pay a shuttle to drop you off and pick you up because of parking rules in the area. For Milford Sound, you really need to hire a boat or kayak to access the area’s gorgeous views.

The hot pools and hot springs in Rotorua are no different. The most amazing sights in this area all charge an entry fee. I understand in this case some of it is to protect and preserve the natural resources, but it can get pricey for anyone on a budget. But there is a free option.

Kuirau Park is located on the edge of Rotorua’s downtown and is home to several natural examples of geothermal activity in the area. Sure, the sights aren’t nearly as colorful as those in the paying attractions, but you can certainly get the feel of what makes this place unique. (Including the sulphuric smell!)

Kuirau Park is mostly home to different pools of bubbling, hot mud. While this is actually quite neat to see, the main attraction here is the area’s massive boiling lake.

One of the many mud pools at Kuirau Park

Kuirau Lake is fairly large, and there are pathways built all the way around it for you to see it safely. Full of dead trees and smoke rising from the lake, the whole area feels like a villain’s secret lair. Making the whole atmosphere even more spooky? A story behind its name and founding that sounds like the plot of a horror movie. According to Maori Legend, Lake Kuirau used to be a cooler lake and was called Taokahu. In fact, they say it was cool enough that people could bath in the water, and that’s exactly what a woman named

Kuirau Lake
One of the viewing platforms at Kuirau Lake
Walk through the smoke at Kuirau Lake using this platform over the water, but be warned: it is quite smelly

According to Maori Legend, Lake Kuirau used to be a cooler lake and was called Taokahu. In fact, they say it was cool enough that people could bath in the water, and that’s exactly what a woman named Kuiarau was doing when a legendary creature name Taniwha dragged her to his lair below the lake. Legend has it this action angered the gods, who made the lake boil to kill Taniwha. The lake has been boiling since and was renamed after the woman who died.

Makes you want to visit, doesn’t it?

As I said previously, Kuirau’s attractions aren’t all that colorful and are fairly limited in scope. (It’s mostly mud, outside the lake.) Kuirau Park is also missing a place for you to actually get in the water, although there is a place to dip your feet in. Personally, I was okay not getting into any hot pools, as they are breeding grounds for amoebas that lead to meningitis. But if that’s your thing, there are a lot of free pools outside of downtown for you to take a dip in.

The lush, tropical greens in other parts of the park are in stark contrast to the dead plants dotting Kuirau Lake

Kuirau Park is uniquely beautiful, and I highly recommend it to anyone who appreciates a spooky location and doesn’t have a lot of money. It’s an especially useful find for backpackers in the area who don’t own a car to make it out to the paying attractions, which are all a bit of a drive outside of the city.

However, if you are willing to spend money, check back next week when I take you through some of the colorful attractions at Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland.

This shot of Kuirau Lake makes me think of Scar’s Pridelands from Disney’s “The Lion King”