Huka Falls was one of those places I fell in love with the moment I saw a photo on Instagram. The uniquely colored rushing blue waters seemed both powerful and serene. I looked them up and found they were on many “must see” New Zealand lists, so by the time I got to them I was really excited.
Unfortunately, Huka Falls was a bit of a letdown.
Huka Falls are beautiful, but they look more like a river
While it is technically a “waterfall,” Huka Falls, I think New Zealand should consider renaming them to “Huka Rapids.” For most of the journey “down,” the water from the Waikato river is on a very gradual incline. However, the water is moving quite fast through narrow passages lined with rocks, making it a sight to both see and hear.
There is a bit of a proper waterfall into a pool at the end, but it’s not especially stunning. (Of the waterfalls I’ve seen in New Zealand, Huka definitely ranks third for impressiveness behind Kitekite Falls and Rere Falls.)
The actual waterfall itself is small and unimpressive
While all of this sounds incredibly disappointing, it’s not. You see, for me, the best part about Huka Falls isn’t the falls themselves, or how tall they are. The main attraction here is the color of the water.
The falls are uniquely blue, that apparently isn’t the result of a special chemical mixture. According to the official tourism website, the color of the falls, like all water, is from a reflection of the blue light from the sky. This fact is somewhat disappointing, but at the same time makes sense. Because New Zealand’s natural beauty is so well preserved, of course, this would be the only place where the water reflects the sky’s color so accurately.
A jetboat drives around the bottom of the falls
In the end, I spent a total of 5 minutes in the place and saw everything I needed, so when planning your trip to New Zealand, I wouldn’t book too much time out for Huka Falls. (That is, unless you’re into jet boating.) In fact, I think Huka Falls should be treated like a good roadside attraction: it’s a great place for a quick pit stop on your way to or from Taupo. (It even has a snack stand and bathrooms.)
Despite the fact I fell asleep the first time I tried to watch “Return of the King,” visiting the Hobbiton Movie Set here in New Zealand was on the top of my “to do” list for this part of the world. Unfortunately, it took me almost the entire year to get here! A lot of this had to do with timing and cost but was eventually able to go thanks to a gift from my family, and a new friend.
The good news: It was worth the wait.
No visit to Hobbiton is complete without a stop to Bag’s End. (Which by the way, doesn’t actually have an interior. Those scenes were shot on a sound stage in Wellington.)
In case you don’t know: Hobbiton is the movie set where they filmed scenes for the “Lord of the Rings” and “Hobbit” movie series. Both are based on fantasy books written by J.R.R. Tolkien.
While I have since rewatched the entire “Lord of the Rings” trilogy and thoroughly enjoyed them, you don’t have to have seen any of the movies or read any of the books to enjoy a trip to Hobbiton. In fact, the tour guide told us about 40% of visitors have no experience with Tolkien in any form. While I personally enjoyed nerding out, the set is simply a really fun place to see and experience.
You can’t get on the grounds on your own; everyone must take a guided tour. But don’t worry, the tour guides are a lot of fun and full of facts to share about the movie filming and production.
Samwise’s Hobbit hole, one of just a handful of Hobbit Holes actually built to scale.One of the 39 Hobbit Holes found in Hobbiton. All are varying shapes and sizes
Some of my favorite facts I learned about the set and the films:
Almost all of the plants on set are real. (Including the giant pumpkins!)
In the books, Tolkien references how hobbit children spend their days playing under the plum trees. However, plum trees didn’t fit the aesthetic of the set and don’t grow naturally in New Zealand. So, the set artists spent hours making an apple tree look like a plum tree for filming. The tree only made it into one scene.
Peter Jackson initially had picked out 12 different shooting locations in New Zealand for Hobbiton. He scraped all of those locations once finding the Alexander Farm near Matamata where the set is now permanently constructed.
One of the things that lead Peter Jackson to choose the Alexander Farm was this tree, which would eventually become the Party Tree in the movies.The Party Field, waiting for the next big celebration in Hobbiton
The set that stands there isn’t actually the one that was used to film anything from “Lord of the Rings.” That was torn down after filming was done. However, trips to The Shire were so popular after the series hit theatres that they decided to make it out of durable, long-lasting materials when it was time to film “The Hobbit.”
The Hobbit Holes are all different sizes. The small ones were built to make the actors playing wizards look tall, and the big ones were built for the actors playing Hobbits.
During filming for “Lord of the Rings” the scene where the Green Dragon burns down is actual footage of the set burning.
The Green Dragon Pub, where you can order real food and drink
Things to know before you go:
The tour starts at one of three places: The Shire’s Rest Cafe, the Matamata I-Site, and the Rotorua I-Site. The Rotorua option is quite a bit more expensive than the other two, as they are busing you in from almost an hour away.
If you don’t do the Shire’s Rest option, you will not see that cafe and gift shop. However, all tours include a free drink at The Green Dragon pub from the films and a visit to the gift shop on the set grounds.
Each tour is on a very strict time schedule, so you won’t get to spend too much time on set, in The Green Dragon or in the gift shop.
The bus rides include specially-made videos that include interviews with director Peter Jackson and the family that owns the farm the set is on. They also include clips from “The Hobbit” films.
The tour guides are happy to snap photos for you, so don’t worry about not getting photos of your adventure if you go alone if you go alone!
My tour guide snapped this expert photo
Amiekay’s Personal Advice:
I really recommend stopping in the town of Matamata if you can, as the town has really embraced its Tolkien-themed tourism industry. The I-Site, for instance, is modeled after a Hobbit Hole, and there are places with Hobbit-themed food and names, such as “Hobbit Sushi.”
The Matamata I-Site, designed to look like a Hobbit Hole
If you have a car, get your tour to leave from The Shire’s Rest. I am a bit bummed I didn’t get to check out this Hobbit-themed cafe.
The entire set is “nerd-friendly.” The tour guide invited us to re-enact the scene where Bilbo runs down the street yelling “I’m going on an adventure.” While I didn’t actually do it, I was extremely tempted.
Called “Gandolf’s Cutting” this passage is extremely narrow in order to create forced perspectiveAmiekay taking a stroll. (Photo by my talented friend Margie)
Before you read this post, I want you to know two things: I am coming back to the States, but I am not a failure.
I feel the need to preface this post that way because, well, I know a lot of people are going to feel that I am. A lot of people are going to tell me I quit just as I was getting started.
But they would be wrong. I am just getting started, and coming back to the States is what needs to happen for me right now.
Let me explain: I’ve accepted a really amazing job offer for a really amazing company in Florida. It’s a job I’ve wanted for a long time with a company’s whose mission I really believe in. It’s also in digital marketing and social media, something I’ve grown to love over the past few years.
But in the end, deciding to leave New Zealand and Wellington, in particular, turned out to be really hard.
You see, a lot of really amazing things have happened here in the past few months. I’ve met a lot of “my” people, found a new spiritual community, and even got to act on a set for the first time in years. I made lots of plans for the next month and even, amazingly, was contemplating actually staying in Wellington. After all, I have always been a creative and a performer at heart, so what better place to try that out than in the place some of my favorite movies have been made?
I almost was ready to stay. Almost. And then I got an offer too good to refuse.
In addition to being offered what I would call in many ways a “dream job,” I also know that coming back to the states is right for me both personally and financially. I have a lot of debt and being in New Zealand has only added to that. Its been a real struggle and was the impetus for much of my anxiety this past year.
Anyone who tells you that you can achieve longterm travel with substantial debt is a liar.
Or at least don’t personally understand how much of a burden that debt can be, especially without anyone in your life who can bail you out if necessary.
While I can only speak from my personal experience, I can say this pretty definitively, at least when it comes to New Zealand. (I hear Southeast Asia is much more affordable.) Then again, maybe I was just unlucky: I recently found out I was pretty drastically underpaid at my job, to the tune of at least $6,000 NZD annually. Still, the fact of the matter is, New Zealand is expensive when it comes to necessities. That, combined with my U.S. bills, means that if I do anything other than work and the gym each week, I am often in the negative days before I get paid again. (And, my meals during the week are rice, beans, and occasionally canned tuna. I am morally against canned tuna, but sometimes you can’t do anything about what you can afford.)
In addition to perhaps being unlucky, I also wonder if I have more debt than most. My debt totals to about $25,000, which I know is less than most Americans are currently leaving university with. And while some people are happy with a bad credit score and not paying bills in exchange for traveling, I’m just not that kind of person. I take pride in being responsible and meeting my obligations, if not exceeding them.
I was advised not to get a second job because of tax laws but I realized too late this advice was probably wrong, considering the source. Either way, had I done that, I definitely couldn’t have traveled or pursued any creative endeavors so it was probably for the best.
Some other reasons I was financially strapped: I like eating healthy, make-up, and going to the gym. (The last one, surprisingly, is the least expensive of the three here in New Zealand. Even drugstore foundation is at least $30.)
Something had to give.
Also, guys. Have you read my blog? I wrote multipletimes this year about how I wanted to live somewhere warm, and have a creative career and I am literally getting both of them. I am excited, and I hope you’re excited for me too.
So that leads us to the question: what’s next for Amiekay’s Adventure?
The answer: it’s not over yet, baby! My new location will allow me to see amazing parts of Florida and the Caribbean I missed the last time around. I am still a traveler and explorer, it will just be in a different climate. And who knows where I will be in a few years? Maybe I’ll settle down and get a dog, or maybe I won’t. Maybe I’ll be in Malaysia or Thailand in two years. Maybe I’ll visit Japan for the Olympics. Maybe I’ll move back to New Zealand. Maybe I will fall madly in love with someone and be able to share these adventures with someone else. Maybe I’ll write a television pilot with my friend in Chicago about being perpetually single. I have no idea, and that’s exciting. For the first time in a long time, the possibilities for my future seem both enchanting and endless.
My only personal worry about the move is whether or not I’ll be able to continue doing acting work on film sets. (Okay, I only got to do it twice this year.) But hey, I do know a good community theatre at least.
So, please, I beg of you, don’t feel sorry for me. Don’t think of me as a failure. I certainly don’t. I got to spend almost a year in New Zealand, and I also get my dream job in a place I love and have considered home since I started drawing palm trees on chalkboards in high school.
I think I’ve said it before, but it bears repeating: the nice thing about Wellington New Zealand is you can be in a somewhat-bustling city one minute and on a beautiful hiking path the next. While I’ve written about quite a few of them already, (check out my favorite here,) I recently walked yet another one. The Paekakariki Escarpment Track is a bit newer than the others but still offers gorgeous New Zealand bush and scenery.
A view of Kapiti Island from the Paekakariki Escarpment Track
The track runs high above State Highway 1 along the Kapiti Coast between Paekakariki in the North and Pukerua Bay in the South. It takes about 3 hours to complete and offers unparalleled views of the ocean and Kapiti Island. Interestingly, it also goes through a residential area and through a closed railway station on its southern end.
The track isn’t a long one, but it isn’t easy. It’s a lot of ups and downs and zig-zagging through the bush along the side of the mountains. A lot of it is exposed, so be prepared for those infamous Wellington winds, and strong sunshine.
A view of the ocean, coast line from the Paekakariki Escarpment Track
The Paekakariki Escarpment Track also earns its nickname “The Stairway to Heaven.” There are stairs almost through the entire walk, and at one point there are around 200 in a row. The good news? If you take the trail from North to South you can go down the stairway instead of up them. Just note that you will still be going upstairs at many points, even in this direction, there just won’t be 200 in a row.
A particular highlight of the walk for me was the two suspension bridges between some of the rolling hills. Not only are they fun to walk across, they are also a great spot for selfies.
One of the suspension bridges along the track
Getting there:
We went by train, but you can also drive to the area if you have a car. Just know if you do this you will either have to do the track in both directions or plan to take a train or uber back to your car at the end.
If you go by train: purchase a day pass for $14. This is only a few dollars more than the one-way ticket and will save you money.
Before you go:
There is no water along the track, so make sure to pack an extra bottle. You’ll need it
The track is exposed much of the way, so be prepared for possibly strong sun, wind or cold, depending on the day.
At one point there is no track, just a ledge, and a rope. It’s fairly safe, but if you’re afraid of heights it could be a bit daunting.
I would recommend bringing snacks and planning to take a break about halfway through. There are several benches along the way and at least one picnic table.
Part of the path that goes through a residential area
Sometimes we do things we aren’t proud of while traveling, and my walk through the bush to see the Kitekite falls is one of them.
Sure, the views were beautiful, but I feel like I dishonored the sacred land by making the hike.
The beautiful Kitekite falls in Piha, New Zealand
Here’s some background: the Kitekite falls are located near Piha Beach, which is about an hour’s drive west of Auckland. They’re stunning and beautiful, and open to the public. You see, normally there is no reason for anyone to feel guilty about going to see them. But right now, I am going to advise you to not do what I did and avoid this area for the time being.
You see, the area around the falls is home to a Kauri forest and Kauri trees are considered kings of the New Zealand forest by the Maori people. They are giant and beautiful, and unfortunately, a lot of them were chopped down by European settlers when they first arrived in New Zealand. However, in recent years, the New Zealand government has taken measures to protect the remaining trees and the forest is slowly coming back to life.
Me inside of the stump of a dead Kauri tree
Unfortunately, over the last few years, many of the trees have fallen ill due to a parasite which is referred to as Kauri dieback. There’s no cure for the dieback, and in order to keep the parasite from spreading, several people in the area have petitioned the government to close the forests to visitors until it heals. And to their credit, a lot of the trails have been shut down, but many are still open. And while there are places to wash your shoes before continuing into the forest, the move doesn’t fully protect the trees and an area considered sacred by the Maori.
The Kitekite track is full of beautiful greenery, and feels extremely tropical
I knew none of this when I started my hike to the falls, but one-third of the way into the hike, a volunteer at the entrance to the shoe cleaning station did explain why the station was there, and why we should consider turning around. I will say I felt as if I should turn back, but didn’t listen to my gut and went anyway.
The hike itself is beautiful. The walk through the forest is fairly easy and breathtaking, and it only takes about an hour and a half round trip to get to the falls and back, although you can continue onwards if you choose to.
A bridge hikers take on their walk to the Kitekite Falls
The falls themselves are worth every single second of the walk. They stand about 130 feet high and can appear even larger if you continue to the lookout, as there are a smaller waterfall and pool directly above it. They are beautiful and stunning and I am happy I saw them in person.
Still, its been a few weeks since I went on the hike, and I have yet to get over the fact that I did something that could harm the forest, and furthermore, disturb a sacred area because I know better. I strive to be an eco-conscious traveler at all times, and also do my best to adhere to the customs and beliefs of the people the country I am visiting. And while in this particular instance I was with other people I still could’ve spoken up and not continued.
This was right after my right foot fell into the water
Unfortunately, this is in the past and is something I can’t change. But I can tell you the story and try and prevent someone from making the same mistake. While there are some news stories about the paths that have been closed to the public, there is not a lot out there is written about the Kauri trees and the forest around Kitekite Falls that I can find. I think that’s a shame because it is a popular attraction, and people should really know what’s going on before they get there. After all, if you drive all the way out there to see the falls, chances are you aren’t going to want to turn around halfway through. But now that you know at the very least you can go there and make a conscious decision either not to go, or to take some precautions, such as cleaning your shoes of any soil before arriving onsite.
To learn more about the Kauri trees and the disease killing them and how you can help save the trees, please check out this website: https://www.kauridieback.co.nz
Kitekite falls seen through the plants along the track
When you think wacky roadside attractions, chances are you think of the United States. Due to its vastness and size, the USA is a country made for road trips, and therefore, roadside attractions like the Giant Ball of Twine. You wouldn’t be wrong for thinking it was the place to see this kind of stuff, because well, that was my belief as well until I saw the giant carrot.
Sure, I had noticed some other weird things on my drive to Okahune, but it was the carrot and adjacent playground that really did it for me. You see, it’s not just bizarre, it is also unexpected: the giant carrot is the first man-made thing you see after miles and miles of pure, untouched landscape, so it sort of stands out.
After seeing this strange and hilarious statue, I started taking note of the other strange things I saw on the road here in New Zealand. So, here’s a list of funky and “giant” roadside attractions I’ve seen on the North Island, all thanks to Okahune’s giant carrot.
Note: I have only personally seen the first 6 of these attractions. The rest were compiled using internet research and gathering photos from other travelers.
1. Giant Carrot – Okahune
Okahune claims its giant carrot is the world’s largest modelCarrot Adventure Park features mascots of the vegetable variety
The giant carrot of Okahune has been greeting visitors to Okahune on the North Island since 1984. Originally used as a prop in a commercial, the town purchased the fiberglass prop as a way to honor farmers in the area who grow most of the country’s carrot crop.
But if you’re going to stop and look at the carrot, you’re going to want to park and check out what’s behind it: the Carrot Adventure Park. In addition to the slides and swings, this playground features a number of fun crop-inspired characters with ridiculous names to match, such as “Muncho Manchester” the carrot.
2. Giant Gumboot – Taihape
Taihape doesn’t make gumboots but considers itself to be the “Gumboot Capital of the World”I mimicked some kids in the area and climbed on the boot. There are no signs around discouraging people from doing this
Although it’s corrugated iron is painted in bright colors, the Gumboot of Taihape is a bit easier to miss than Okahune’s carrot. Not only is it smaller, but it is also not in as obvious a location, especially when driving North. Still, it has just as strange a story behind it: The town erected the statue after it became known as the “Gumboot Capital of the World.” The thing is, the town doesn’t make or really have anything to do with gumboots, it got the moniker thanks to a fictional gumboot-wearing character named Fred Dagg who came from Taihape.
3. Giant Bull – Bulls
When I was in Bulls, this giant statue was decorated for ChristmasThe town’s ador-a-bull and punny sign
To be fair, there is way more bull to see in Bulls than just the giant one, even though the town doesn’t get its name from the animal. Instead, Bulls was named after James Bull, an English settler who owned and operated the town’s first general store. Still, in recent years the town has taken to celebrating the animal that shares its name by erecting giant bull statues all around town, including a big wooden one that stands in its center.
While the bull on wheels itself is impressive, what really got me was the sign of bull puns next to it. The sign points you towards some of the town’s sights, including the Bulls Library, which is described as”read-a-bull,” The Mothered Goose Cafe, which is apparently “select-a-bull,” and the information center which is, unsurprisingly, “inform-a-bull.”
4. Giant De Molen Windmill – Foxton
Foxton, New Zealand is home to a Dutch windmillThe windmill offers visitors a chance to buy Dutch treats and souvenirs because nothing says I visited New Zealand like clogs?The windmill is fully functional and built to specifications directly from the Netherlands
This is just so out of place and random that my first thought when I went inside the windmill was “only in New Zealand!” The fully-operational windmill opened in 2003 and is a full-scale replica of the traditional windmills found in the Netherlands. (It even grounds flour you can buy!) The ground floor is a shop that sells goods imported from the Netherlands, but you can also see the working parts of the windmill for a small donation.
5. Cuba Street Bucket Fountain
Some people say Elijah Wood peed in this fountain
While I saw the other 4 on a single road trip out of Wellington, this strange and splashy statue resides in the city I currently call home. It’s a pretty average looking bucket fountain, and honestly, I don’t understand why this silly statue is on so many people’s “must see” lists. Not only is it strange, the fountain is also broken and splashes unsuspecting visitors. Local lore has it the fountain does this because no one remembered what order the buckets were supposed to go in after being taken apart for maintenance.
6. Big Dog and Sheep – Tirau
Tirau’s giant sheep dog building houses its I-Site center. Photo Courtesy: Saskia Boerboom
While I have actually seen these unique buildings from the car, I didn’t think to get out and take a photo at the time.
You can’t miss these massive, corrugated iron buildings as you drive by, and if you have time you might as well pull over, take a picture and go inside them! The sheep building houses a wool and craft shop while the sheep-herding dog’s insides are home to the town’s information center.
Tirau is also home to a giant ram, and a bunch of other corrugated iron sculptures including a cow, a shepherd, and a praying mantis.
7. Giant L&P Bottle – Paeroa
One of the two giant L&P bottles you can find in Paeora. (Photo Courtesy: Emma Jeffreys)
A soft drink that is “World Famous in New Zealand,” L&P is a Kiwi staple in the summertime.
Known for its wacky advertising, it doesn’t come as a surprise that the town where L&P get’s its name has not one, but two giant bottles paying tribute to it! The original and potentially more “famous” L&P bottle features the brand’s original design and is located in Ohinemuri Park. But if you’d like some L&P to go with your L&P visit, there is also one outside an L&P Cafe.
L&P stands for “Lemon and Paeroa,” which comes from the drinks original recipe: carbonated water from the town of Paeroa mixed with lemon. (It tastes a bit lemony and peppery.)
8. Catlin’s Teapot Land – Owaka
This garden of teapots sits alongside the main road in Wanaka. (Photo Courtesy: Bethany Gordan)
The teapot’s featured in the garden come in all shapes, sizes, and colors (Photo courtesy: Bethany Gordan)
Having never been to the South Island myself, this attraction came as a complete surprise to me when a fellow traveler shared it in a group, so I figured it was worth featuring.
Teapot Land has a weird origin story. The man who owns it, Graham Renwick, tells Stuff.co.nz, that one day he found a teapot in his garden and popped it on his fence. He then added a few more from his own collection, and the rest is history. He now he has over 1300 teapots in his garden from all over New Zealand and the world.
Amongst the beautiful scenery of central Otago, there stands a fence adorned with thousands of bras.
Yes, bras.
The fence allegedly began in 1999, when four bras were found hanging from a fence on Cardrona Valley Road. Locals weren’t too keen on it, but the collection of bras steadily grew as more and more travelers added their own undergarments.
Wai-O-Tapu is an attraction about 20 minutes outside Rotorua that bills itself as a “thermal wonderland.” The park features a number of attractions and sights caused by the volcanic activity in the area. But while it is full of some beautiful colors and unique landscapes, it is not necessarily a must-do in the region.
A day at Wai-O-Tapu begins early, as you have to get there by mid-morning if you want to see one of the park’s main attractions: the Lady Knox Geyser.
A crowd gathers to watch the Lady Knox Geyser erupt at Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland
Although the Lady Knox Geyser is not located in the Wai-O-Tapu park, the only way you can actually see it erupt is by buying the $32.50 NZD ticket into the park. So if you want to get your full money’s worth, make sure you get to the park early enough to see the geyser erupt, which only happens at 10:15 am sharp every day.
And why does it only happen at that time? Why is this geyser so predictable?
Well, because the park guides force it to erupt by putting soap in it.
A bit disappointing, isn’t it? While it is cool that you are guaranteed to see the geyser upon admittance into the park, this seems like a bit of a cheap trick.
Don’t get me wrong, the guides tell a neat tale sort of vindicating what they are doing. The story goes this: the geyser was discovered by prison inmates in the early 1900’s who were in the area clearing trees. When these prisoners found the hot water, they put soap into it to wash their clothes, making it erupt.
A view of the Lady Knox Geyser erupting, and a closer look at its artificial base
In addition to the eruption not being a natural phenomenon like say, Old Faithful in the States, the base of this geyser is also man-made. Rocks were placed at its base several years ago with the specific purpose of making the eruptions more intense. (The water can climb up to 20 meters or 65 feet high depending on the day and amount of soap.) Those rocks have since become coated with silica left behind from all the man-made eruptions.
That being said, it is fun to see, especially if you’re like me and have never seen a geyser erupt before. Just know you’re going to see more of a show than a naturally occurring phenomenon.
There is some good news, however, and that’s the attractions inside the park. These are not only completely natureal, but are far more vibrant, colorful and strange than the geyser.
A view of the Artist’s Pallet and Champagne Pool attractions at Wai-O-Tapu
It is these colorful pools and springs inside the park that give Wai-O-Tapu its name, which means “sacred waters” in Maori. From the radioactive green-colored Devil’s Bath to the refreshingly colored blue and oranges in the Champagne Pool, your eyes are in for a a treat that spans the colors of the rainbow. Like the official website says really you can “leave the filter at home.”
The radioactive green Devil’s BathWai-O-Tapu’s famous Champagne Pool
All of the sights here are thanks to the park’s location inside a collapsed volcanic crater that was formed 230,000 years ago. The area is still active, and of course, like most of the attractions in Rotorua, smells like sulfur. While the smell is stronger than some areas of the park than others, the rotten egg smell is fairly prevalent for the whole 75 minutes it takes to see the park, so if this is something that is likely to bother you, I’d advise a nose plug, or at least waiting to eat your lunch until afterward.
Something else you should prepare for when visiting is the crowds. Wai-O-Tapu may be a natural series of sights, but it feels much like an amusement park. There are lines of people excited to catch a glimpse of the waterfalls or lakes just like there are lines and crowds waiting to get on Space Mountain. IT is an experience that I think is purely New Zealand; where else in the world would natural sights be akin to going to Disney Land?
Even the trees here are colored and feel radioactive thanks to a type of algae known as trentepohlia
Overall, I did enjoy my visit to Wai-O-Tapu and would recommend it to anyone who has the $33 NZD in their budget. However, if you have more time than money, I would advise you to skip it. You can see sights similar to the ones in the park throughout the region for free, they are just more spread out and require a bit of planning, driving, and hiking.
In addition to the geothermal attractions, you also get to spend a bit of time walking through native New Zealand bush
New Zealand is known for its unique and beautiful landscape. From Milford Sound in the South Island to the Tongariro Alpine Crossing in the North, this country is made for people who love the outdoors. And while some are free, a lot of them end up costing you a bit of money. For instance, even though the Tongariro is free to hike, you have to pay a shuttle to drop you off and pick you up because of parking rules in the area. For Milford Sound, you really need to hire a boat or kayak to access the area’s gorgeous views.
The hot pools and hot springs in Rotorua are no different. The most amazing sights in this area all charge an entry fee. I understand in this case some of it is to protect and preserve the natural resources, but it can get pricey for anyone on a budget. But there is a free option.
Kuirau Park is located on the edge of Rotorua’s downtown and is home to several natural examples of geothermal activity in the area. Sure, the sights aren’t nearly as colorful as those in the paying attractions, but you can certainly get the feel of what makes this place unique. (Including the sulphuric smell!)
Kuirau Park is mostly home to different pools of bubbling, hot mud. While this is actually quite neat to see, the main attraction here is the area’s massive boiling lake.
One of the many mud pools at Kuirau Park
Kuirau Lake is fairly large, and there are pathways built all the way around it for you to see it safely. Full of dead trees and smoke rising from the lake, the whole area feels like a villain’s secret lair. Making the whole atmosphere even more spooky? A story behind its name and founding that sounds like the plot of a horror movie. According to Maori Legend, Lake Kuirau used to be a cooler lake and was called Taokahu. In fact, they say it was cool enough that people could bath in the water, and that’s exactly what a woman named
Kuirau LakeOne of the viewing platforms at Kuirau LakeWalk through the smoke at Kuirau Lake using this platform over the water, but be warned: it is quite smelly
According to Maori Legend, Lake Kuirau used to be a cooler lake and was called Taokahu. In fact, they say it was cool enough that people could bath in the water, and that’s exactly what a woman named Kuiarau was doing when a legendary creature name Taniwha dragged her to his lair below the lake. Legend has it this action angered the gods, who made the lake boil to kill Taniwha. The lake has been boiling since and was renamed after the woman who died.
Makes you want to visit, doesn’t it?
As I said previously, Kuirau’s attractions aren’t all that colorful and are fairly limited in scope. (It’s mostly mud, outside the lake.) Kuirau Park is also missing a place for you to actually get in the water, although there is a place to dip your feet in. Personally, I was okay not getting into any hot pools, as they are breeding grounds for amoebas that lead to meningitis. But if that’s your thing, there are a lot of free pools outside of downtown for you to take a dip in.
The lush, tropical greens in other parts of the park are in stark contrast to the dead plants dotting Kuirau Lake
Kuirau Park is uniquely beautiful, and I highly recommend it to anyone who appreciates a spooky location and doesn’t have a lot of money. It’s an especially useful find for backpackers in the area who don’t own a car to make it out to the paying attractions, which are all a bit of a drive outside of the city.
However, if you are willing to spend money, check back next week when I take you through some of the colorful attractions at Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland.
This shot of Kuirau Lake makes me think of Scar’s Pridelands from Disney’s “The Lion King”
Note: All Photos in this post courtesy of Spellbound Glowworm and Cave Tours unless otherwise specified.
If Epcot ever gets a New Zealand pavilion, I already know what the ride should be: a quick sail through dark waters illuminated only by glow worms.
Let me explain. New Zealand is home to a lot of magnificent sites. From its many mountains to its hot springs, to its Lord of the Rings filming locations, there are a plethora of natural things to see and do here. And while I haven’t seen them all, I have seen quite a few, yet none of them have been as magical or as memorable as my time spent in Waitomo.
Waitomo is a small town on the North Island that has a population of about 50 people. However, its population grows by the thousands on any given day, as travelers from all over come here to see glowworm caves. Now, to be fair, glowworm is a nice name for the fly maggots that glow with bioluminescence in the area, but still, they are a really beautiful sight to behold.
A close-up of the magical glowworms in Waitomo
The many caves in the area are also where Waitomo gets its name. In Maori, the language of the native New Zealanders here, Waitomo is a combination of two words: “wai” or water, and “tomo” or hole. According to the town’s official tourism site, the combining of these words literally translates to “stream which flows into the hole in the ground.” It is these streams that provide the unique environment needed for the glowworms to grow and thrive.
Oh, and because this is New Zealand there was also a hike involved. Here’s a look at some of the limestone rocks that line the Waitomo countryside, and are responsible for the caves in the area (Photo by Amiekay)
There are a number of companies that run glowworm tours in Waitomo, including one that allows you to go rafting through the caves. However, because I went sort of unplanned, we had to call around and really just go with whichever tour would take us. This ended up being Spellbound, a private tour company who has access to caves outside of the town center. For Spellbound’s tour, we took a bit of a lengthy car ride through town, parks, and eventually a private farm. During this time, our comedic tour guide asked us silly questions like “if you were a cake, what kind of cake would you be?” to pass the time. He also told us a bit of history about the area, including the opening of sinkholes that would often result in the deaths of cows.
The tour we were on included a boat ride through a wet cave and a walking tour through a dry cave. Both are interesting and informative, but the first cave is far more spectacular. During this tour, not only are you treated to your first look at the glowworms but also you are given plenty of time for your eyes to adjust before getting into the boat. This means you see more glowworms more clearly.
A picture of the raft we took through the cave.
I have to be honest, the whole thing really felt like a ride at Disney World. It seemed totally unreal and completely out of a storybook, and I found that I had to repeatedly remind myself it was in fact, not only real life but also a natural phenomenon. Sure, the lights were being made by maggots but they are beautiful. (Our comedic tour guide also told us that the glowworms sometimes fall from the ceiling, but luckily this did not happen on my trip.)
A look at the worms in the light
After the boat ride, our tour stopped off for coffee and biscuits before heading to the dry cave. The dry cave is a little more traditional and features the tour guide explaining the difference between stalagmites and stalactites. However, there were some only in New Zealand moments. Including a close up look at the skeleton of a Moa bird, an ostrich-like animal that was killed off when the Maori arrived on the island hundreds of years ago. (We also were shown cave wetas and a huntsman spider, but I was a little less thrilled about those things.)
The skeleton of a young Moa that experts believe fell into the cave and diedAnother skeleton we were shown, which our guide told us is the “most photographed dead cow” in New Zealand. I think he was joking… (Photo by Amiekay)
Overall, I have to say the glowworm caves are a must-see for anyone visiting New Zealand. While there are glowworms elsewhere in the world, the ones here are larger and more plentiful than anywhere else. And the tours aren’t expensive, either. Our entire tour cost $75 NZD and was 2 hours long, but some of the other tours cost as little as $35 NZD. Much cheaper than Disney World.
A look at what the glowworms looked like to the naked eye (Photo by Amiekay)
If you follow me on Instagram, then you know I have this thing with the sun. I love the way its rays play against everything from the clouds, to the scenery to my phone’s camera lenses. I also just really like sunny days, and from time to time will take pictures of the sun with my camera, just so I can see what it really looks like in the sky without harming my eyes.
That being said, the sun in New Zealand is unlike the sun anywhere else in the world. Yes, its the same sun you have where you are, but there’s a bit of a hole in the ozone here, so it looks a lot different in the sky. While this unnatural phenomenon is bad for your skin (I burn quicker here than I ever did in South Florida,) it is great for experiencing stunning sunrises and sunsets.
While I have seen a few sunrises and sunsets during my time in New Zealand, there are two, in particular, that stand out to me.
Best Sunrise: Wainui Beach, Gisborne
Before the sun came over the horizon in Gisborne
While it’s technically incorrect to say this is the “first sunrise the world sees,” that doesn’t stop Gisborne from pushing this as a reason to go there. (It’s not even the first place in New Zealand to see it.) However, you can say pretty accurately Gisborne is the first “major” population center to see the sunrise, so that makes it cool.
But what Gisborne lacks in facts, it makes up for in beauty. The sunrise here is quite stunning, even in the cold. The sun clears the horizon with epic orange rays that dance against the clouds, beaches, and mountains in a way only the New Zealand sun can do. And because it is so far East, and not so densely populated there is nothing to impede your view.
The sun in all its glory
Best Sunset: Piha Beach, Piha
The sun beginning its decline in Piha, as my friends take a walk along the beach
Before I came to New Zealand, the best sunset I had ever seen was in Key West, Florida, USA. There is something about the size of the sun setting this close to the equator that is decidedly out-of-this-world. The boats sailing in the area add a stunning backdrop just about every evening.
A ship sails during sunset in Key West, Florida
So you can imagine how beautiful the sunset at Piha must be for me to say it may now, in-fact, be my favorite. But, somehow, it did that, despite the chill in the ai The reason I loved the sunset at Piha is the brightness of the sun. It is not especially large like the sun in Key West, but it’s so bright it makes you look like a standing shadow on the beach.
The other thing about the sunset at Piha is the way the rays play against the rocky coastline, which admittingly, is not something you get to see everywhere.
