Wonderful Wai-O-Tapu

Waiotapu in Rotorua

Wai-O-Tapu is an attraction about 20 minutes outside Rotorua that bills itself as a “thermal wonderland.” The park features a number of attractions and sights caused by the volcanic activity in the area. But while it is full of some beautiful colors and unique landscapes, it is not necessarily a must-do in the region.

A day at Wai-O-Tapu begins early, as you have to get there by mid-morning if you want to see one of the park’s main attractions: the Lady Knox Geyser.

A crowd gathers to watch the Lady Knox Geyser erupt at Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland

Although the Lady Knox Geyser is not located in the Wai-O-Tapu park, the only way you can actually see it erupt is by buying the $32.50 NZD ticket into the park. So if you want to get your full money’s worth, make sure you get to the park early enough to see the geyser erupt, which only happens at 10:15 am sharp every day.

 

And why does it only happen at that time? Why is this geyser so predictable?

Well, because the park guides force it to erupt by putting soap in it.

A bit disappointing, isn’t it? While it is cool that you are guaranteed to see the geyser upon admittance into the park, this seems like a bit of a cheap trick.

Don’t get me wrong, the guides tell a neat tale sort of vindicating what they are doing. The story goes this: the geyser was discovered by prison inmates in the early 1900’s who were in the area clearing trees. When these prisoners found the hot water, they put soap into it to wash their clothes, making it erupt.

A view of the Lady Knox Geyser erupting, and a closer look at its artificial base

In addition to the eruption not being a natural phenomenon like say, Old Faithful in the States, the base of this geyser is also man-made. Rocks were placed at its base several years ago with the specific purpose of making the eruptions more intense. (The water can climb up to 20 meters or 65 feet high depending on the day and amount of soap.) Those rocks have since become coated with silica left behind from all the man-made eruptions.

That being said, it is fun to see, especially if you’re like me and have never seen a geyser erupt before. Just know you’re going to see more of a show than a naturally occurring phenomenon.

There is some good news, however, and that’s the attractions inside the park. These are not only completely natureal, but are far more vibrant, colorful and strange than the geyser.

A view of the Artist’s Pallet and Champagne Pool attractions at Wai-O-Tapu

It is these colorful pools and springs inside the park that give Wai-O-Tapu its name, which means “sacred waters” in Maori. From the radioactive green-colored Devil’s Bath to the refreshingly colored blue and oranges in the Champagne Pool, your eyes are in for a a treat that spans the colors of the rainbow. Like the official website says really you can “leave the filter at home.”

The radioactive green Devil’s Bath
Wai-O-Tapu’s famous Champagne Pool

All of the sights here are thanks to the park’s location inside a collapsed volcanic crater that was formed 230,000 years ago. The area is still active, and of course, like most of the attractions in Rotorua, smells like sulfur. While the smell is stronger than some areas of the park than others, the rotten egg smell is fairly prevalent for the whole 75 minutes it takes to see the park, so if this is something that is likely to bother you, I’d advise a nose plug, or at least waiting to eat your lunch until afterward.

Something else you should prepare for when visiting is the crowds. Wai-O-Tapu may be a natural series of sights, but it feels much like an amusement park. There are lines of people excited to catch a glimpse of the waterfalls or lakes just like there are lines and crowds waiting to get on Space Mountain. IT is an experience that I think is purely New Zealand; where else in the world would natural sights be akin to going to Disney Land?

Even the trees here are colored and feel radioactive thanks to a type of algae known as trentepohlia

Overall, I did enjoy my visit to Wai-O-Tapu and would recommend it to anyone who has the $33 NZD in their budget. However, if you have more time than money, I would advise you to skip it. You can see sights similar to the ones in the park throughout the region for free, they are just more spread out and require a bit of planning, driving, and hiking.

In addition to the geothermal attractions, you also get to spend a bit of time walking through native New Zealand bush

Rotorua Hot Springs on a Budget

New Zealand is known for its unique and beautiful landscape. From Milford Sound in the South Island to the Tongariro Alpine Crossing in the North, this country is made for people who love the outdoors. And while some are free, a lot of them end up costing you a bit of money. For instance, even though the Tongariro is free to hike, you have to pay a shuttle to drop you off and pick you up because of parking rules in the area. For Milford Sound, you really need to hire a boat or kayak to access the area’s gorgeous views.

The hot pools and hot springs in Rotorua are no different. The most amazing sights in this area all charge an entry fee. I understand in this case some of it is to protect and preserve the natural resources, but it can get pricey for anyone on a budget. But there is a free option.

Kuirau Park is located on the edge of Rotorua’s downtown and is home to several natural examples of geothermal activity in the area. Sure, the sights aren’t nearly as colorful as those in the paying attractions, but you can certainly get the feel of what makes this place unique. (Including the sulphuric smell!)

Kuirau Park is mostly home to different pools of bubbling, hot mud. While this is actually quite neat to see, the main attraction here is the area’s massive boiling lake.

One of the many mud pools at Kuirau Park

Kuirau Lake is fairly large, and there are pathways built all the way around it for you to see it safely. Full of dead trees and smoke rising from the lake, the whole area feels like a villain’s secret lair. Making the whole atmosphere even more spooky? A story behind its name and founding that sounds like the plot of a horror movie. According to Maori Legend, Lake Kuirau used to be a cooler lake and was called Taokahu. In fact, they say it was cool enough that people could bath in the water, and that’s exactly what a woman named

Kuirau Lake
One of the viewing platforms at Kuirau Lake
Walk through the smoke at Kuirau Lake using this platform over the water, but be warned: it is quite smelly

According to Maori Legend, Lake Kuirau used to be a cooler lake and was called Taokahu. In fact, they say it was cool enough that people could bath in the water, and that’s exactly what a woman named Kuiarau was doing when a legendary creature name Taniwha dragged her to his lair below the lake. Legend has it this action angered the gods, who made the lake boil to kill Taniwha. The lake has been boiling since and was renamed after the woman who died.

Makes you want to visit, doesn’t it?

As I said previously, Kuirau’s attractions aren’t all that colorful and are fairly limited in scope. (It’s mostly mud, outside the lake.) Kuirau Park is also missing a place for you to actually get in the water, although there is a place to dip your feet in. Personally, I was okay not getting into any hot pools, as they are breeding grounds for amoebas that lead to meningitis. But if that’s your thing, there are a lot of free pools outside of downtown for you to take a dip in.

The lush, tropical greens in other parts of the park are in stark contrast to the dead plants dotting Kuirau Lake

Kuirau Park is uniquely beautiful, and I highly recommend it to anyone who appreciates a spooky location and doesn’t have a lot of money. It’s an especially useful find for backpackers in the area who don’t own a car to make it out to the paying attractions, which are all a bit of a drive outside of the city.

However, if you are willing to spend money, check back next week when I take you through some of the colorful attractions at Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland.

This shot of Kuirau Lake makes me think of Scar’s Pridelands from Disney’s “The Lion King”