Away in Wairapapa

Someone told me not to bother coming to New Zealand if I didn’t like hiking. Well, I never liked hiking before but I came here anyway, and now I am planning weekend getaways that include walking some long trails. I am really thankful.

I have to be honest, this likely wouldn’t have happened if I hadn’t met people who were keen to go on hikes and walks themselves and invite me on them. I imagine I would’ve done all the touristy things around Wellington that involved little exertion and then fill up the rest of my week with drinks, the gym, and Netflix. Now, I have to admit already happened to some extent, especially while my more active and hiking friends were out of the area. But guess what? They’re back! And that means, I’ve gone on a few new adventures already, I just haven’t written about them up until this point. To start, I want to focus on our trip to Wairarapa, Greytown and Cape Palliser.

The view from the Cape Palliser Lighthouse

To give you a bit of an idea where this adventure took place, it was a 2-hour drive from Wellington to the cape, which is the Southern-most point of New Zealand’s North Island. That drive through the Rimutaka hills is long and winding, but it is also absolutely breathtaking. (For all of my Pennsylvania friends, it’s a similar look and feel as the Pine Creek Gorge area, which is better known as the Pennsylvania Grand Canyon. If you haven’t been I would recommend it.) There are hikes through this area as well, but we just stopped at the lookout and kept driving. This is because it was a windy and chilly day, but also because the drive was quite long and we had a lot we wanted to do.

The view from the entrance to the Rimutaka Crossing, a trek made by 60,000 New Zealand Soldiers during WWI.

On our way to the lighthouse in Cape Palliser, we stopped in one of the hidden gems in the area: a small village called Greytown. The picturesque town is actually the oldest in the region and is full of architecture and cute, funky shops. My friend Anca says it reminds her of the town Stars Hollow from “Gilmore Girls,” and I would have to say this is accurate. (And now you know exactly how the village feels, don’t you?)

In Greytown, we stopped at an adorable coffee shop called “Cahoots.” It has your standard coffee-shop fare which was tasty but what I really liked about it was the atmosphere. It’s a little nerdy and a lot of fun; for instance the table numbers they give out so you know where the food goes all feature pop culture figures. (We were “G” for Gandolf, and someone next to us was “E” for Elvis.)

The ladies at Cahoots. That was my first of several coffees for the day. (Also, do you see Gandolf!?)

The rest of the village was a bit artistic and fun as well. There was a bicycle shop where you could buy a tandem bike if you wanted, a community theatre and a lot of locals who didn’t seem used to “so many” tourists.

The black sand beaches in Wairarapa were surreal

Our beautiful drive through the mountains continued, before taking us out to the coast. Here, there were black sand beaches to explore and a rocky area that held some of my favorite New Zealand residents: fur seals and seal pups. There were so many in this area you had to be careful where you stepped because some of them were so still you didn’t realize they were there right away.

These are just a few of the seals that were hanging out in Cape Palliser. They didn’t seem to keen to have us around
This is one of the guys I almost stepped on, because he was so chill

After the seals, we continued on our way to the Cape Palliser lighthouse. The lighthouse has sat atop the cliff here since 1897 and is still in use today. Me, being a fan of lighthouses, almost didn’t mind the 253 stair climb to the top of the cliff to see it up close! (However, I would’ve loved to climb more steps to get to the top of the lighthouse itself, but alas, this was not an option.)

All of the steps to the lighthouse
The view is always worth the climb

Now, with all that adventure in one day, you’d think we would be done, but no, not us! Afterwards, we had one more stop yet to take, and this one was the tastiest. Close to Cape Palliser Lighthouse, there is a tiny fishing town known for its crayfish called Ngawi. It is so small, only about 20 people live in the area year-round. As it was the off-season, the only business we passed that was open was the “Captain Table Food Truck,” which sits along the coast. I bet you can guess where we stopped and how tasty the fresh-caught fish and chips were.

Don’t look at me, look at the food and that view!

Also in the town, we stopped to check out some adorable lambs. They were adorable, albeit a little dirty to pet. Still, totally worth it.

Lamb butts are cute too, aren’t they?

It was a really good day, and aside from the food and coffee, it was 100% free.

Seeing Seals at Te Kopahou Reserve

seeing seals

So here’s an update you weren’t expecting: I went on an actual hike, like on purpose. (Or was it more of a long walk? This definition is sort of up to debate amongst my friends.) Either way, I took time out a few days ago to see nature and guys, I actually enjoyed it.

One of the views that made the dirty shoes worth the walk

Here’s how it happened: after a long night out (you wouldn’t believe if I told you what time I went to bed,) a friend of mine messaged me the next afternoon and asked if I wanted to go and see live, wild seals. Not really thinking about my dehydration or really anything other than the fact I would get to see seals I immediately said yes. I didn’t think to ask how long it would be, or what kind of shoes to wear. (However, since I only own things that fit in a suitcase, I wouldn’t have had too many choices for the latter.) That being said, I am going to assume my enthusiasm and adrenaline got me through the next few hours, because looking back, I’m not really sure how I managed to make it the 2 and a half-hour trek otherwise. But regardless, it was totally worth it.

The Te Kopahou Reserve seems like another world, but it is a short drive out of Wellington city center; it took us about 10 minutes to get there. When you arrive at the reserve’s massive parking lot, you’re met with accessible restrooms, water fountains and other amenities so you can make sure you’re prepared before taking the trek. (The only thing it doesn’t have is food, so I suggest you eat whatever you need to get you through the walk before you go.)

This picture screams inspirational quote to me

 

Once you pass through the gates, be prepared for some breathtaking scenery. The reserve is only open to pedestrians and bikers; if you see a car on the path it must belong to one of the areas few residents, and they are only allowed in a small portion of the beach. (My entire trip we saw just one vehicle.) Most of the trek is also sand, so take that into account when wearing shoes. (Don’t be me and wear chucks!)

The easy walk is 100% worth it and offers some of the most stunning views I have seen so far in New Zealand. It was also the first time in my life I have had the privilege of seeing black sand (which if you haven’t seen is a beautiful site in itself!) The black beaches, jutting rocks and spectacular mountains are really amazing to see. (And this is all before you get to the seals!)

The seal in the background is just showing off

When we finally got to the seal colony about an hour and fifteen minutes from the entrance, I was blown away. We didn’t just see one seal, no these creatures littered just about every rock in the areas “red rock” formation. Because they are conserving energy, it is easy to walk up to them and take a picture. (One did bark at me, but quickly went back to his nap.) I was also really excited to find one laying right along the path, but this excitement quickly subsided after the poor animal threw up. We also came across at least 2 dead seal carcasses, so the path isn’t 100% serene, but it is natural and in my opinion, worth every step.

Another highlight of the walk is the “Devil’s Gate” formation at the top of a mountain near the seal colony. It is the perfect spot to grab an instagram photo to share with your friends at you enter the other side of Middle Earth, although I promise it is too beautiful to be Mordor. (If you are going to take a photo though, I would recommend walking through it and turning around for the best shot. Otherwise, you’ll have a warning sign in your image and also miss the chance to capture the sea and the mountains in the background.)

This is the side not to use (I edited out the warning sign because I mean, just look at it!)
My friend Anca took a photo of me on the “right” side

I should also mention this trek also introduced me to Paua shells, a beautiful type of shell unique to New Zealand. They feature iridescent blue, green and purples on their insides. Chances are you’ve heard of them or seen something similar, but that doesn’t make them any less beautiful.

Another inspirational quote photo featuring paua shells

I would like to go back to Te Kopahou Reserve and see the sunset sometime, as the little glimpse we caught of the sun falling behind the clouds was quite beautiful. However, because it is New Zealand there are no lights along the path,  you’ll have to be prepared with your own flashlight or torch to get you home. I would also recommend taking the trek with friends or a loved one because it is too beautiful to keep to yourself.

I guess I should invest in some hiking boots.

Speechless

Quick Overview:

Price:  Free

Hours of Operation:  24 hours. Take a flashlight if you plan to be out after dark

Good for: Solo travelers, hikers, adventurists, nature-lovers, families with kids old enough to walk, couples, seeing sunrise/sunset, animal lovers