The Great Barrier Reef Archives | Amiekay's Adventure

December 11, 2017February 21, 2018

Bucket List Check 2: The Whitsundays

I knew day 5 of our trip would be special not only because the itinerary was awesome but also because it started with an act of kindness.

You see the day was to be spent doing the boat tour on a catamaran called the “Camira,” that would take us to Whitehaven Beach and to another location of the Great Barrier Reef. It was basically another full day on a boat, which is easily my favorite way to spend a day. However, because alcohol was included in the ticket price, this meant we were not driving ourselves to the port.so we called a taxi and headed to the front office for the taxi to pick us up.

The view of our ship, the purple Camira, from the cruise terminal

We called a taxi and headed to the front office for the taxi to pick us up. Well, the nice thing about staying somewhere small is the incredible willingness to help you out. The owner of Kipara Rainforest Retreat saw us waiting for the taxi and immediately offered us a ride, and told us a bit about the retreat’s history, which once served as an army barracks.

After checking in, we waited for our boat to be called from the “Cruise Whitsundays” terminal. Much like our experience with the Poseidon tour, there was quite a bit of waiting and then rushing to get the best seat. That was followed by coffee, tea, and biscuits/cookies to snack on and of course, a safety briefing for the snorkel portion of the tour. (Complete with a mic topped with a sea turtle plushie, which was fairly unforgettable.

At this point in the tour, it became really windy and rainy, which was unfortunate, as we were on a catamaran; a type of boat that is not known for its cover, and all 60 or so of us did our best to squeeze into the tiny cabin.

The rocky beach on one side of Whitsunday Island

Eventually, the ship dropped its anchor off the coast of Whitsunday Island, the largest of the 74 islands in the Whitsunday group, and home to Whithaven Beach, a beach consistantly ranked in the top 10 of the world. But before we could enjoy the sand, Australia did a little something to remind me of New Zealand: it forced us to take a hike. (An easy one that I did in flip-flops, but it was still a hike.)

Now, Cruise Whitsundays advertises this portion of the tour as a “guided walk following the history and the path of the Whitsunday Traditional owners, the Ngaro people.” And while it is possible we walked an ancient path, there was very little “guiding” being done. It was basically just a group walk to the Hill Inlet Lookout: While the lady in charge of my group was extremely nice, she didn’t actually offer us any unique information or teach me anything about the Ngaro people. In fact, all she really did was give us directions to the top, something we could’ve figured out on our own from the signs.

One of the informative signs on our hike to the Hill Inlet Lookout

Views from our minituare hiking adventure

That being said, the view from the lookout is just as amazing as it appears in Instagram pictures. The water is a bright blue and is interspersed with sandbars. Its a view that changes daily depending on the wind and current, which means every trip there is a little bit different. It’s breathtaking and gorgeous and definitely deserving of its standing as the third most photographed place in Australia. Something to note though if you go: it is extremely crowded. Because you can only get to the island by boat, there are always tour groups coming and going, and that means like any major attraction around the world, you will be waiting in line just a little bit to get that perfect photo or selfie.

The pretty, gorgeous view of the ever-changing sand patterns of Whitehaven Beach

After we finished taking pictures we rushed down to the beach, and the moment you step in the sand, you know why it is ranked as one of the best beaches in the world. Not only is the sand a pure white, it’s never hot, and feels just like walking through powdered sugar. This unique texture and color exists because the sand is 98% pure silica. (Most sand consists of silica and multiple other particles as well.) How the sand got there is a mystery: the rest of the beaches in the Whitsundays are full of coarser, more standard-texture sands. Additionally, the rocks surrounding Whitehaven beach don’t even contain silica. The most popular theory about this phenomenom is the sand drifted to Whitehaven from somewhere else thousands of years ago and got stuck in the narrow inlet.

Behind-the-scenes: The crowd of people taking photos you don’t see in those gorgeous lookout photos

I could’ve laid all day on the beach here, even though it was still a bit cloudy and cold to get in the water. But eventually, we had to head back onto the catamaran for lunch and to head to our next stop: snorkeling the Great Barrier Reef.

A tip for people sailing the Camira: make sure you jump on the first tether back to the boat after snorkeling, so you can be first in line for lunch! It’s tasty, and worth the wait if you must have one, but with that many mouths to feed the length of time can cause hanger.

I should mention that at this point, the boat opened up the bar for the rest of the day, so if you were looking to just get drunk on the water, you could certainly do that. However, if you have one before the snorkel stop, you aren’t allowed to get in the water. So my advice to you: just wait. You can always get alcohol, but you can’t always dive the Great Barrier Reef.

This reef stop was just as exciting to me as the one in Port Douglas; I honestly didn’t care that I had already seen parts of the reef. In fact, I was thrilled to jump in the water and get yet another glimpse at the coral and dazzling display of fish. And to be fair, this stop had more of the vibrancy and beautiful colors I was searching for in Port Douglas but didn’t find.

My feet in the powdered-sugar-like sand at Whitehaven Beach

Having fun with a piece of driftwood on Whitehaven Beach

Unfortunately, the snorkeling wasn’t all fun and games, as one of the other passengers on the boat did something incredibly harmful to the reef: he stood on it. In fact, he stood on it despite being yelled at multiple times, much to the ire of our guides. This is because coral, which makes up most of the reef, is not only alive, but it is also delicate. This is why you are always told not to touch reefs and why it’s important to pay attention to your safety briefings.

I should also mention this man, who was part of a larger tour group who booked out much of the boat, stood on the reef to take a photo. (This was a common theme throughout this particular group.) Now, I don’t know what the photo was of but assuming it was the most amazing thing in the world, killing the coral was not worth it. Worse yet, when this man was told to go back to the boat for disobeying the rules multiple times, he didn’t really seem to understand he had done anything wrong.

I tell you this story because I want you to know how important it is to me to be an eco-conscious traveler. (Despite my time with the koalas earlier in the trip.) Nature is beautiful, but in order for us to ensure it is there for the next generation, we have to both respect it and take care of it. The Great Barrier Reef, in particular, is facing enough threats as it is from the environment and people, and doesn’t need tourists to help aid in its destruction.

There is afternoon tea on the way back, as well as those aforementioned alcoholic beverages.

Overall, my experience on the Camira was a good one, even despite the man who stood on the coral. This is because the crew is very friendly and the sights were everything I hoped them be and more. However, this cruise, in particular, is not very educational or informative in any way, especially compared to the Poseidon where I felt like I learned quite a bit. After all, this is a catamaran sailing, so like most catamaran sailings, its a party.

Because we were a bit buzzed from the fun in the sun, the next stop for us girls was to head into town and find a drink and maybe some food. While we didn’t find the food, we did find the drink at Magnum’s Backpackers, a fun outside spot populated by picnic and pool tables, low lighting and live music. Its a bit of a dive bar, but the wine was inexpensive and the vibes chill and beachy.

After that, it was home to prepare for our 13-hour drive to Gold Coast.

The sunsets on another day of fun in Australia

November 20, 2017February 21, 2018

Bucket List Check: The Great Barrier Reef

Note: All photos in this post are courtesy Josh, the photographer on the Poseidon unless otherwise specified.

If you asked me the one thing I needed to do while visiting this side of the world it would’ve been to see the Great Barrier Reef. (And yes, I realize it is in Australia and I chose to move to New Zealand, but this is beside the point.)

Well, it took me a few months but I did it and it was amazing, even if I didn’t see a sea turtle.

A photo of the Great Barrier Reef from the Poseidon (Photo by Amiekay)

My second day in Australia the girls and I woke up to catch our shuttle to the Port Douglas Marina. We somehow managed to get up both early enough to buy coffee and also late enough to think we missed our ride; a van picking up people doing a dive tour with the same company as we were pulled away just as we came outside. We panicked a bit but after asking the concierge to check we discovered we were on a big bus which hadn’t arrived yet, and not the van that just left. Phew!

The scuba/snorkeling adventure we went was on The Poseidon and done in association with Blue Dive and Quicksilver. This particular adventure provides food and drinks (including those of the adult kind) so most people come via the provided transportation which means that, much like Disney World, the first thing you do for the day is wait-in-line. You wait in line to get on the bus, then you wait in line to pay, and then you wait in line to get on the boat. But the waiting doesn’t end there: once you get on the boat you wait in line for your coffee and tea. And while this may sound tedious to you, it’s really not: you’re too excited about the upcoming adventure for it to even both you. Plus, the entire staff is beyond friendly, in true Aussie fashion.

One of the many, many lines that started the day (Photo by Amiekay)

Some other “housekeeping” notes to mention about this adventure is that I had to fill out a safety waiver, which is pretty standard on most scuba and snorkeling tours. I am mentioning this because Australia has some of the strictest diving-laws in the world. They are so strict that if you answer “yes” to a number of questions you may have to take a physical before being allowed to participate. This is made very clear several times prior to your dive.

Once everyone was fed and legalized, the fun began, sort of. The Poseidon crew divided us into two groups: divers and snorkellers. This is the first time my little group of 3 split: 2 of us were diving, the other snorkeling. But we would split one more time: because I had never dived before, I was doing “Discovery SCUBA” whereas my friend Ashley was a certified diver. (Yep, each one of us signed up for a different activity.)

Now for the next hour or so, we were all in our respective “briefings.” These are the presentations they do to make sure you understand how to use the equipment and stay safe. They also make one thing very, very clear: do not touch or stand on the reef, because doing so will kill it. (This is important for a story later in this series.)

Because I was doing the “Discovery SCUBA” my briefing was more like a class and was a bit longer than the other two. My instructor explained to us how to use the equipment, and also that water pressure can cause your lungs to collapse and kill you. He did this to emphasize how important it was to always keep breathing and to take a moment to depressurize, much like when you do on a plane. I would be lying if I said the class wasn’t a little bit unexpectedly terrifying. (And keep in mind: I’ve gone skydiving.)

The Poseidon tour stops at three places in the Agincourt Reef, a series of smaller reefs in The Great Barrier Reef system. The places change each day depending on the weather and other sailing factors. From what I’ve read, Poseidon generally tends to pick really good spots along this reef system, and the 3 places we went on our cruise were spectacular, so I have no reason not to believe this.

I only paid for 2 discovery dives, so that meant one of my adventures would be snorkeling. I lucked out and did the snorkeling first. It was a nice way to get my feet wet and meant I got to hang out with my friend Katherine for my first ever Great Barrier Reef experience. It was also my first time snorkeling and viewing any reef in my life, and something I’ve unfortunately missed out on despite visiting and living in several different tropical climates. (I specifically tried to see a reef once off St. John in the U.S. Virgin Islands but my partner at the time was too frightened at the time to make the swim, and have regretted not going on my own for years.)

Kath and I getting ready for our Snorkeling Adventure

I think the most surprising thing for me when seeing the Reef for the first time was just how dull the colors were. I incorrectly assumed this was a result of bleaching, but was told by our guides that while bleaching is still a big concern, things are improving. She said even though the colors were dull, the reef was alive and well. (And I did a little research and found that while I definitely saw some dead corals, for the most part, this is true. Not all corals are the vibrant purples and greens you see in pictures.) Either way, I consider myself lucky enough to have seen the images I did.

This is what a lot of the reef looked like: swarming with schools of fish

Now, I wish I could’ve rented a camera and taken pictures to show you the beauty, but unfortunately, since it was my first time doing SCUBA, it would’ve not been safe for me to be concentrating on something other than my breath for the first two dives, so I had to skip out this time. Luckily, the Poseidon tours do come with a photographer, so I was able to purchase some photos of my day and a series of reef images to share with you.

After our first stop, we sailed off to the second diving location and this is where the real fun begins. For the first time in my life, I strapped on an oxygen tank and was prepared for my great adventure under the sea.

Me with my gear strapped on, excited for my first dive

I would like to say I didn’t freak out at all, but I did. For the first 15 minutes underwater, I was really worried I wouldn’t be able to pressurize my sinuses or lungs and would drown. (I told you, that class was terrifying.) I couldn’t even relax enough to do the “skill” of switching masks underwater for a good 5 minutes, although I did get it eventually. This was all exacerbated by the fact I felt like the weakest link: the other two people in the diving group with me were certified divers who were getting their feet wet after a few years absence.

Due to my lack of confidence, I had to hold my instructor’s hand for a good portion of the dive, but once I got the hang of it, the experience was magical. (She even said she just let me pull her along once she could tell I was comfortable.) Unlike snorkeling, where you are mostly observing the ocean when you dive, you get to be a part of that world. In other words, snorkeling is the Little Mermaid pre-legs, and scuba diving is her life after legs. It’s a substantial difference, so if you think its something you could do and ever get the opportunity, I would advise you to jump in.

There are so many cool fish species to be seen at the Great Barrier Reef

While I did get to see a barracuda briefly, my first dive was unfortunately cut short because one of the experienced divers in my group tried to stray from the path and go a bit deeper than we were supposed to go on the introductory dive. And while that is a bit disappointing it did mean I got to the lunch buffet table a bit earlier, and that was pretty good deal.

After lunch, we went to the third and final dive site, which was easily my favorite. Maybe it was because I felt more comfortable, or maybe it was because this instructor was a marine biologist and particularly informative but I really feel like I was able to see more at this final spot than anywhere else. Thanks to my instructor, I was able to see Christmas Tree Worms, an underwater creature I didn’t know existed previously. The warms have colorful crowns that look like ornaments hanging on the coral that would curl into their hiding places whenever he waved his hands over the water above.

An example of a Christmas Tree Worm. The ones I saw in person were a bright purple

Some other highlights of my dive included seeing a giant clam open and close. These creatures seemed big enough that I could’ve fit inside the shells, but I would’ve never known what they were had I not been shown. My instructor also pointed out a brightly colored anemone and clownfish which was nice to see as well.

This photo doesn’t do the giant clams justice, as the ones I saw were massive and much scarier in person

I can’t say for certain this was the same anemone I saw, but this is pretty much exactly what it looked like, complete with Nemo and friends

The tour finishes with afternoon tea. There were optional beer and wine to be purchased, but we stuck to water and rehydrated.

While my one friend had a particularly disappointing trip, I have nothing bad to say about this experience with Poseidon. Just thinking about this experience gives me chills, as its something I honestly never thought I’d have the opportunity to experience and it was everything I hoped it would be and more. I really can’t imagine a perfect introduction to the reef and SCUBA diving and while it was a bit more expensive then my pocketbook would like, I have to say I would pay for it again without hesitation.

Proof I went underwater and did the thing. I also accidentally touched that coral after this photo and felt awful about it

This day, which was actually Ashley’s birthday (the whole reason behind the trip,) didn’t even end there. After we got off the boat, Ashley, determined to get on a sunset cruise, rushed down the pier to see if we could jump on a boat before it left. I’m happy to say she was successful and like most thing’s spontaneous, it was a fun way to cap to the end of the day

The boat we ended up on was the Lady Douglas, a smaller boat that takes several trips a day through the Dickson Inlet waters. Its main goal is to spot crocodiles, but that wasn’t the reason we jumped onboard. In addition to the scenery, the best part of the trip is the tour guide. He’s funny and informative to the point we missed a good chunk of the sunset. (Although the affordable wine helped with that as well.) The best way for me to describe this experience is a real-life and grown-up version of the “Jungle Cruise” ride at Disney World.

A view of the Dickinson Inlet from Lady Douglas (Photo by Amiekay)

Two of the sunken boats spotted in the inlet (Photo by Amiekay)

While we didn’t see any crocodiles, the ride was a lot of fun, even though there were some serious points during the trip. This included several sunk boats and vessels still in the river almost a year after Cyclone Debbie struck the area. They were a sight to see, but a harsh reminder of the power of Mother Nature and how much devastation storms can bring.

As far as the rest of the sights on the river, they weren’t super unique to me; having lived in Florida I have seen my fair share of mangroves and palm trees. (That’s not to say I don’t love these things, I absolutely do.) But overall this surprise excursion was more than worth the $35 AUD., a ticket price that included one alcoholic beverage and a few “snacks.”

After our second boat tour of the day, we headed into Port Douglas to grab something to eat at The Court House. The food there was tasty and satisfying, and it was great to sit on the balcony at the end of the day and observe the town of Port Douglas: a relaxed sea-side town that reminded me of several towns along Florida’s Treasure Coast. It was wonderful.

Day 2 concluded with us walking back to our 5-star resort via the famous “4 Mile Beach” in the area. And while the views weren’t as spectacular at night as they would be the next day, it was nice seeing at the Southern Sky without any artificial lights with sand between my toes…